Starting problem

[SeKcGamer]

I've been daily driving my z for about a month now and it's starting to have a starting problem. When I drive it for a couple of hours the car starts to lose power and begins to cough up and I pull over to the side of the road and it starts but reads low fuel pressure(13 psi) . So luckily I have a Jerry can in the back of my car and i went to buy some fuel and the car started immediately and so I took the freeway and made it like 5 miles and took my exit and the same Thing happened. And now it's reading low fuel pressure when I go to start. But when I wait a few minutes the car starts up run then dies.
 
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[Mark Maras]

 I'm going to guess crud in the tank. The foreign matter (probably rust) may be blocking the line to the pump. The pumping action sucks up the crud and blocks the fuel flow. Engine stops, crud falls away from the line until you run the pump again. However, all the fuel filters should be checked and if possible, drain the tank to find out what may be in there.

[gwri8]

Another member had a similar problem a while back.  Her problem was water in the tank.  Rust/crud in the tank is another one and very common with these old  Z's.  Have you installed a G3 filter before the fuel pump yet? That will indicate the health of your fuel tank and help keep your fuel clean. Did you replace your fuel filter in the engine bay yet?  Those would be the cheapest things to check first.

If not those the other things to check are the fuel pump, lines, and fuel injectors.

Edited July 28, 2017 by gwri8

[sweatybetty]

wild thought. would a plugged gas cap vent cause this problem? gas cap not letting air into the tank?

[SeKcGamer]

 

This is what I've found, possible rust in my tank?. If it is rust what's a good way to clean the tank. On another thread someone said to drop the tank and fill it with acid and use a red coat or something.Do you know where I can find this acid and red-kote.

 

 

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[Zed Head]

Fuel pumps can heat up and lose pressure.  Then they cool down and start working right.  I've had one that did that and so did FastWoman.

But they can heat up if they're working too hard.  I'd replace all of those filters, then let the pump run by moving the AFM vane and see how the pressure does.  You can run the pump without starting the engine and learn a lot.

[SeKcGamer]

Drained the tank and so far no rust?, but the filter had rust?.


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[siteunseen]

Red-Kote, $30 a quart and that's plenty, O'Reilly auto parts is where I got mine. Google "red-kote directions" it's a  Damon product I think? Read those directions then ask about anything you don't understand. If you plan ahead and everything ready to use it is not too hard to do. The tank will need a week to cure the liner. Can not rush that or your screwed.

[Zed Head]

The rust is heavier than the liquid fuel and sits on the bottom of the tank.  It gets shaken up and suspended in the fuel as you're driving then sucked in to the pump and lines .  You can either let new filters clean the tank for you or drop the tank and shake the rust out.  That's your essential choice right now.

This is a very well-known problem.  No real mystery here.

 

[SeKcGamer]

This was the only bucket with particles in it[emoji1554]

 

 

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[Zed Head]

Shake the car vigorously side-to-side and you'll get more of that.

[esmit208]

One of the smallest particles is enough to cause drivability issues. I was on a trip between an F1 race in Indianapolis and Petit Lemans in Atlanta and had to pull over and take the lids off both carbs to check for foreign matter in Tuscaloosa AL. The car actually died on I-20 about 20 miles west of Tuscaloosa. Sure enough the rear carb had about 30% blockage where the metering needle goes through. Cleaned it and everything was fine after that. It might not seem like much but it doesn't take much. Remember this was top of the line precision back then. A full system clean will probably do the trick. Drop the tank replace the filters, treat the tank disconnect the fuel loop and blow high pressure air through the lines. Good Luck.