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Starting problem


SeKcGamer

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  On 8/17/2017 at 5:51 PM, Dave WM said:

you clearly have issues with fuel pressure.

start with a new fuel filter, try again

then

I would second ZH on breaking this down. Start with a 5 gallon can of gas, with a fill and return line, bypassing the tank completely. See if it still does it.

You have to break the system down to:

  1. fuel tank (can of gas)
  2. fuel pump (new one if any doubt)
  3. electrical supply to said pump (volt meter on pump)
  4. fuel lines (check for ease of flow)
  5. fuel filter (just replace it)
  6. pressure regulator after all the above then pretty much has to be this test by seeing how well it works in a static environment then adj by applying a vacuum.

 

 

 

I

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fuel tank. you need to fix the tank. all the other items are ok. as it turns out item one was the prob all along.

Edited by Dave WM
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  On 8/21/2017 at 3:07 AM, Dave WM said:
fuel tank. you need to fix the tank. all the other items are ok. as it turns out item one was the prob all along.

So all I would need to do it poke a hole through the sock with this wire. Or how exactly is it suppose to get unclogged?.


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  On 8/21/2017 at 2:53 AM, SeKcGamer said:


I gave it a little rev and it did go up in fuel pressure. Obviously it wasn't a big rev because I have a jerry can. But it went up to 38and back to 32.
 

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Didn't realize that that was from a running engine.  You need to write more words.  Fuel pressure looks good.  

As Dave says, the problem is before the pump.  Probably just a clogged screen/sock on the inlet tube.  You could tilt the tnak so the clogged sock is low then fill the inlet tube with mehtyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or acetone.  It will dissolve or soften the material on the screen.  Then blow it clear with your air nozzle.  You can get the solvents at the hardware store.  It shouldn't take much at all.  

 

redkote.PNG

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  On 8/21/2017 at 3:19 AM, SeKcGamer said:


So all I would need to do it poke a hole through the sock with this wire. Or how exactly is it suppose to get unclogged?.


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I don't know why the tank is plugged, but it needs to be fixed. My SWAG is you should try to work some kind of snake in and out of the metal tubes that are plugged. I am lost as this thread has gone on so long. Did you do something to the tank and then the problem started? one of those sealers? if so did you blow the lines out after using? If the sealer is the problem you may try to position the tank is a way that will allow a funnel to be attached and then find out if there is a solvent that will attack the sealer and pour a little of that in to the funnel. I really don't know what to tell you at this point to fix it, but it clearly is the problem.

 I had a professional do my tank, which involved cutting the tank open and clearing out the internal screen and rewelding. It was expensive.

Edited by Dave WM
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There's a screen on the inlet tube.  Some call it the sock.  That's what gets clogged by the sealer,  it has small holes.   It was referenced in that Hybridz link I posted.  

The solvents are referenced in the RedKote instructions.  He's one trip to the hardware store away.  Pour some in the inlet tube, wait a few seconds, blow it through with the air nozzle.  Won't hurt the inside of the tank liner, the amount is small.  It will just be absorbed.

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  On 8/21/2017 at 2:18 AM, Dave WM said:

more confused than ever on exactly how that is supposed to work so its a two way check valve? I wonder why they want air to flow back into the tank? did the 78 have a sealed gas cap maybe? oh wait is says there is a vacuum relief valve right on the gas cap description. ugh.

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Not sure, but my guess would be that they didn't want the system to continuously circulate. Think about this scenario...

Car is sitting overnight with a half tank of gas and everything is cold. Then in the hot Arizona sun, the car heats up to 140 degrees at mid-afternoon and the vapor in the gas tank expands and cracks the check valve and pushes some vapor up into the carbon can. Then that night after the sun goes down, the car cools off to 60 degrees at 2:00AM and the vapor in the tank contracts and draws a vacuum on the tank.

If the only way to reduce the vacuum is through the gas cap, then it will essentially form a one way path. Every day it will push into the carbon can, and every night it will suck in past the gas cap. Eventually, your tank will be empty, and your carbon can will be saturated.

I wasn't there when they designed it, but my theory is that they didn't want that to happen. So they put in another way for air to get back into the tank to reduce that vacuum, and by pulling it back through the carbon can, they can put those vapors back into the tank where they belong. Essentially exhale and inhale through the same tube instead of inhaling through one and exhaling through a different one.

Haha!! Far fetched maybe, but that's all I got?  :)

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I'm thinking the check valve on the CARB system is a smaller check valve with a lower cracking pressure than the one on the gas cap. But since the CARB system is under vacuum when the engine is running, they can't use that smaller check valve when driving. They still need the other one on the gas cap to break any potential vacuum in the tank as fuel is removed to run the engine.

Again, just reverse engineering speculation.

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