Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

Starting problem


SeKcGamer

Recommended Posts

again that follows. I was only thinking of a system that is active. they had to design for the inactive state. This is one of the reasons I get hung up on all the deleting of stuff, I am sure that a lot of thought went into the total system design and deleting one thing may upset something else not thought of I think its often called "unintended consequences". It is also why I tend to try and qualify most of my statements. Example why is there the small restriction in the rubber hose from the CC to the hard line? perhaps a way to limit the rate of flow? its in there but I did not see it mentioned in the FSM or could it be a remnant of something on my care only. You can feel/see it if you look closely at the short piece of hose (assuming it original and has not already been replaced).

 

Edited by Dave WM
Link to comment
Share on other sites


My 77 had the carbon can removed before I got it, so I can't look for any of that restriction. Which tube is it in?

1) The tube that leads from the tank to the can
2) The tube that leads from the can to the intake manifold
3) The control line tube to the throttle body and distributor

I believe my old 260 had a restriction between the can and the intake manifold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the short tube from the tank hard line to the CC. The 1st time I attempted to clear the plugged hard line I just fed in my cleaning wire thru the hose, it struck this restriction right off. I could then feel it and you can see it if you straighten out the hose (the hose is maybe 6 inches long).

Edited by Dave WM
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I poured the acetone in and used the air compressor. And it worked phenomenally well. Should I wait a day to install the tank again or put it in now?. It's currently 11:37 and we hit totality and all with the eclipse thing. And work starts at 1:30 and I get off at midnight.


Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just make sure it will gravity feed out of the tube before you reinstall the tank. Or just hook up a hose and see if you can pour gas thru a funnel INTO the tank thru that now cleaned hose. what ever you do you need to make sure it flows freely. You should take your time and make sure it works, no rush, this will fix the car.

one more thing when you do re install use a SINGLE G3 see thru fram filter as a prefilter (tank to pump).

Make sure you have a NEW fuel filter under the hood. when you get the car running again check ALL the hose fittings for leaking gas, esp under the hood. Use FI rated hose after the pump, before the pump not under pressure. I use FI for all just to make it simple. I had a bit of a hard time getting the right size fuel lines IIRC down around the tank/pump area.

check for leaks several times, after every drive, at least for a several cycles. ALWAYS carry a fire ext with you rated for gas fires in the car.

 

Edited by Dave WM
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These guys have done yeomans work helping you through this! I will chime in now, if it were mine I would let it dry as long as I could before reinstalling the tank. If you can run a fan to move air through the tank, do that too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad that's working for you.  Like Patcon said, let it dry as long as possible.  I say this because I remember you mentioning about coating the tank and then putting it to use after 2 1/2 - 3 days.  That was premature according to the directions of Red Kote.  

While it is off, take a peek inside just to make sure everything has adhered.  Take a pic with the cell phone if you can.  I used a handheld LED light in one opening with a phone cam peeking in the other.  I'm curious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe people are confusing Red-Kote with one of the other tank sealers.  Red-Kote is just a fuel resistant polymer dissolved in a prayerful "polar" solvent.  MEK evaporates very quickly.  8 - 24 hours is the dry time, for a whole quart of Red-Kote.

http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

Edit - meant "powerful" but "prayerful" actually seems more appropriate.  Spell-correct.

Edit 2 - took a bunch or words out.

 

Red-Kote instruct dry.PNG

Edited by Zed Head
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These guys have done yeomans work helping you through this! I will chime in now, if it were mine I would let it dry as long as I could before reinstalling the tank. If you can run a fan to move air through the tank, do that too.

It's going to be sitting for at least 24hrs since I'm not home. Should the return line also be as easy to blow through.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 532 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.