Starting problem

[Patcon]

I agree with ZH start at the fuel pump. Bad pump, bad power or obstruction...

[SteveJ]

I want to say this sounds similar to the problems @Redwing was having two years ago that eventually ended up with replacing the AFM and ECU.

[SeKcGamer]

Update: I dropped the tank and checked it thoroughly, and nothing seemed to be blocking the lines. So I put everything back on and exchanged my fuel pump with a new one and I installed it. I also put a fuel filter before the pump and deleted the one after it. After everything was installed the car started right up, I took it for a drive around the block twice and drove fine, but on my third run I started getting the same problems again. The pressure went down and I barely made it back home. When I finally got back it died at 16psi and didn't want to start anymore. The first time I dropped the tank I remember seeing this little black filter coming out from the top of the tank and I replaced it with a small fuel filter idk what I was exactly but it looked stock. Do you think my fuel lines could be bad or clogged?

 

 

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[siteunseen]

In my opinion if the lines are clogged it would be instant. No 2 laps around the block. I keep thinking when it sits the blockage falls down then after driving it stirs back up and clogs it down.

Have you tried replacing the metal filter on the passenger's side of the radiator? There $10.

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, SeKcGamer said:

After everything was installed the car started right up, I took it for a drive around the block twice and drove fine, but on my third run I started getting the same problems again. The pressure went down and I barely made it back home. When I finally got back it died at 16psi and didn't want to start anymore.

Time to break your problem in to pieces, I think.  Try this, if you can get the engine to start again - let it sit and idle.  For a long time.  There won't be any fuel sloshing around in the tank, just the pump pushing it around in a circle.  Watch the pressure, listen to the pump and the various relays involved in supplying power.  If it idles for many minutes (longer than three laps around the block at least), then you can focus on stuff in the tank.  If it does the same thing as before, at least you'll have a clue, that's it not some large thing sloshing around in the tank 

Then, if you want to take the tank out of the picture, run your supply and return lines in to a gas can under or beside the car.  Do the same thing, let the engine idle.  See what happens.

You can do the same thing as above, but without the engine running at all .  Just jump the fuel pump relay or hot wire the fuel pump.  Let it spin and push fuel.  See what happens.  Actually, that's what I'd do first, because it's quieter and you'll be able to hear the pump.

You're trying to think about too many things at once.  Turn the big problem in to several small ones.

[SeKcGamer]

In my opinion if the lines are clogged it would be instant. No 2 laps around the block. I keep thinking when it sits the blockage falls down then after driving it stirs back up and clogs it down.
Have you tried replacing the metal filter on the passenger's side of the radiator? There $10.

I've replaced all filters on the car. I called my teacher about it also and he suggested that I first tried crimping the return Line and check the dead pressure. And he also told me it could be an electrical problem and he wanted me to test both the positive and negative side of the pump. And go from there. Any thoughts about that?.

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[SeKcGamer]

I don't know I this could be a piece of the puzzle but when I got the take up from the first time ( when the red-kote was applied) I put fresh fuel in and the next two days when I drained the tank the fuel was yellow. This time that I drained it the fuel was pink. Could the red kote be affecting this? Or have something to do with it?

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[Zed Head]

It doesn't matter much.  What you need is something  that is simple and reproducible so that you can then make changes to find the cause of the low pressure problem.

Run the pump in the garage with no distractions.  Let it run until the failure occurs.  Then wait until you can do it again.

On the other hand. the last thing that you said was that the engine won't start anymore.  So your new problem is a no-start problem, maybe permanent.  The very simplest thing that you can do right now is to disconnect the starter solenoid, turn the key to Start, and observe the pressure on the gauge.  If you can't get to pressure, then it's back to studying the fuel system parts.  The suggestion to check the filter was a good one.  It might be clogged, and/or the filter element might be wet

I read the Red-Kote instructions and ity looks like you did things right.  http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

[sweatybetty]

random thought

9 hours ago, SeKcGamer said:

After everything was installed the car started right up, I took it for a drive around the block twice and drove fine, but on my third run I started getting the same problems again. The pressure went down and I barely made it back home. When I finally got back it died at 16psi and didn't want to start anymore.

 

 

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random thought. after driving around the block, try opening the gas cap, is there a rush of air into the tank? heck, try driving without the cap. if the cap is bad, the tank may be in a vacuum not letting the pump do its job

[Zed Head]

That's a good idea.  Don't take any left turns at more than 2 miles per hour though.

[SeKcGamer]

Even when I take off the gas cap there's no pressure build up. It's currently trying to idle at 30 but then moves rapidly to 20 then back up to 30. When I take the cap off, nothin. It's like closing a jar and opening it.


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[SeKcGamer]

And I hear the pump from inside the car and it's making like a synchronized sound, like every second it'll make like "rmmm". I currently tried giving it gas and it cause afterfire. And now it's just idling again.


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