26 minutes ago, MrChefur said:

That's true, but a new one was only $8 and I figured it'd be nice to have.

sometimes you get what you pay for, was the new one a Nissan OE, if not you should test it before using. I test all replacement parts like T stats, sensors etc... if you don't it tends to make you not consider the possibility that a problem could be a faulty NEW part. It happens.

20 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

sometimes you get what you pay for, was the new one a Nissan OE, if not you should test it before using. I test all replacement parts like T stats, sensors etc... if you don't it tends to make you not consider the possibility that a problem could be a faulty NEW part. It happens.

It's an Aitex/Wells. I'll be sure to test it, thanks for the advice.

The thermotine and coolant temp both have bullet connectors about a foot back from the injector connectors. Some people disconnect them there instead of breaking the fragile plastic. Sometimes those bullet connectors just need cleaning.

On 8/14/2017 at 0:16 PM, siteunseen said:

The thermotine and coolant temp both have bullet connectors about a foot back from the injector connectors. Some people disconnect them there instead of breaking the fragile plastic. Sometimes those bullet connectors just need cleaning.

Ah, ok. I'll give them a good cleaning as well.

Also, does anyone know where I could get a valve spring compressor near Murrieta, CA? Something like the KD 3087 would be fantastic so I don't have to pull the camshaft and such. If anyone here wants to sell/rent/loan theirs, I'd be very grateful.

That's what you need.  Rossiz has one but he lives in Washington and hasn't been on the forum in awhile.  I'd start a new thread on that, maybe someone will see it and loan you one.  We're on page three here. 

Maybe try something like "cam hook spring compressor needed"????

There's a cheap Chinese one on ebay or amazon for $50 when I was looking a year or so ago.  Harbor Freight maybe?

Edited August 17, 20177 yr by siteunseen

Guess who's back!

After not being able to find a suitable valve spring compressor anywhere, I improvised and did it with a 13/16" box end wrench, which worked just fine despite being a massive pain.

Problem is, the valve stem seals look brand new.  They look exactly the same as my new Fel-pro ones.

Here's a picture:

https://i.imgur.com/Qe3dBLB.jpg

Should I continue and do all the rest of the valves? Or is it possible something else is causing the oil to burn?

You're there, change them all. Could be a defective one or two in there. Just look at them closely after pulling them. They can tear on assembly if you're not careful. 

The only part of the seal that wears is the inside lip, change them all.

8 hours ago, rcb280z said:

You're there, change them all. Could be a defective one or two in there. Just look at them closely after pulling them. They can tear on assembly if you're not careful. 

Yes, be sure and use the little straw condemn and plenty of oil.

You guys were right, the inside of the seals were worn out on a few. I replaced them all and got everything back together, as well as a hot valve adjustment.

In this neverending saga, now I've got yet another problem. The car backfires out of the exhaust if I blip the throttle from idle, and my plugs are solid black which indicates the car is running rich. It also smokes out of the exhaust still. I cleaned the bullet connectors, but that didn't change anything.

I'm gonna finish replacing the connectors for everything before I go on another witch hunt, but I'm pretty bummed out right now.

Go immediately to Pin 13 at the ECU connector and confirm that the resistance is correct for the temperature.  Check that the AFM vane moves freely and isn't stuck.  Basically, check the stuff that controls fuel.

3 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Go immediately to Pin 13 at the ECU connector and confirm that the resistance is correct for the temperature.  Check that the AFM vane moves freely and isn't stuck.  Basically, check the stuff that controls fuel.

I'll be sure to check it again, but I've done that (as well as every single ECU resistance/voltage/continuity test in the EFI bible) already.