August 14, 20177 yr comment_527904 26 minutes ago, MrChefur said: That's true, but a new one was only $8 and I figured it'd be nice to have. sometimes you get what you pay for, was the new one a Nissan OE, if not you should test it before using. I test all replacement parts like T stats, sensors etc... if you don't it tends to make you not consider the possibility that a problem could be a faulty NEW part. It happens. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-527904 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 14, 20177 yr Author comment_527909 20 minutes ago, Dave WM said: sometimes you get what you pay for, was the new one a Nissan OE, if not you should test it before using. I test all replacement parts like T stats, sensors etc... if you don't it tends to make you not consider the possibility that a problem could be a faulty NEW part. It happens. It's an Aitex/Wells. I'll be sure to test it, thanks for the advice. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-527909 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 14, 20177 yr comment_527948 The thermotine and coolant temp both have bullet connectors about a foot back from the injector connectors. Some people disconnect them there instead of breaking the fragile plastic. Sometimes those bullet connectors just need cleaning. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-527948 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 16, 20177 yr Author comment_528106 On 8/14/2017 at 0:16 PM, siteunseen said: The thermotine and coolant temp both have bullet connectors about a foot back from the injector connectors. Some people disconnect them there instead of breaking the fragile plastic. Sometimes those bullet connectors just need cleaning. Ah, ok. I'll give them a good cleaning as well. Also, does anyone know where I could get a valve spring compressor near Murrieta, CA? Something like the KD 3087 would be fantastic so I don't have to pull the camshaft and such. If anyone here wants to sell/rent/loan theirs, I'd be very grateful. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-528106 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 17, 20177 yr comment_528141 That's what you need. Rossiz has one but he lives in Washington and hasn't been on the forum in awhile. I'd start a new thread on that, maybe someone will see it and loan you one. We're on page three here. Maybe try something like "cam hook spring compressor needed"???? There's a cheap Chinese one on ebay or amazon for $50 when I was looking a year or so ago. Harbor Freight maybe? Edited August 17, 20177 yr by siteunseen Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-528141 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 25, 20177 yr Author comment_528837 Guess who's back! After not being able to find a suitable valve spring compressor anywhere, I improvised and did it with a 13/16" box end wrench, which worked just fine despite being a massive pain. Problem is, the valve stem seals look brand new. They look exactly the same as my new Fel-pro ones. Here's a picture: https://i.imgur.com/Qe3dBLB.jpg Should I continue and do all the rest of the valves? Or is it possible something else is causing the oil to burn? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-528837 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 25, 20177 yr comment_528838 You're there, change them all. Could be a defective one or two in there. Just look at them closely after pulling them. They can tear on assembly if you're not careful. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-528838 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 25, 20177 yr comment_528846 The only part of the seal that wears is the inside lip, change them all. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-528846 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 25, 20177 yr comment_528847 8 hours ago, rcb280z said: You're there, change them all. Could be a defective one or two in there. Just look at them closely after pulling them. They can tear on assembly if you're not careful. Yes, be sure and use the little straw condemn and plenty of oil. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-528847 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 29, 20177 yr Author comment_529081 You guys were right, the inside of the seals were worn out on a few. I replaced them all and got everything back together, as well as a hot valve adjustment. In this neverending saga, now I've got yet another problem. The car backfires out of the exhaust if I blip the throttle from idle, and my plugs are solid black which indicates the car is running rich. It also smokes out of the exhaust still. I cleaned the bullet connectors, but that didn't change anything. I'm gonna finish replacing the connectors for everything before I go on another witch hunt, but I'm pretty bummed out right now. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-529081 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 29, 20177 yr comment_529083 Go immediately to Pin 13 at the ECU connector and confirm that the resistance is correct for the temperature. Check that the AFM vane moves freely and isn't stuck. Basically, check the stuff that controls fuel. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-529083 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 29, 20177 yr Author comment_529085 3 minutes ago, Zed Head said: Go immediately to Pin 13 at the ECU connector and confirm that the resistance is correct for the temperature. Check that the AFM vane moves freely and isn't stuck. Basically, check the stuff that controls fuel. I'll be sure to check it again, but I've done that (as well as every single ECU resistance/voltage/continuity test in the EFI bible) already. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58265-rebuilt-engine-idle-problems-running-rich/?&page=5#findComment-529085 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment