I bought my setup from Peter (Pallnet) last Christmas to ensure its availability. Very nice older gentleman but I was very concerned he would simply stop manufacturing or "retire". I am happy with my 11mm o-ring style rail. Still a long ways from installing it...

You can get nice long straight pieces of steel fuel line at Autozone, for the return line.  They had a selection of lengths to choose from, hanging in the back, and painted a nice dark color.

Where did you get the aluminum tube with the channel?  I haven't seen that before.  I like it.  Less work measuring those two points and probably no drilling, just a clamp.

 

No drilling, you bolt can slide anywhere the length of the rail. I went to Home Depot and got some aluminum flat bar and made brackets that are attached to the factory fuel rail support points on the intake. I purchased the aluminum stock on eBay. Search Fuel Rail Datsun, they are there.


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Thanks.  That wasn't around, or at least it wasn't easily findable, when I built mine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anodized-Fuel-RAIL-Stock-Datsun-Chevy-BMW-6AN-1-2-ID-Any-uses-/162584726491?hash=item25dace0bdb:g:8fwAAOSwAKxWa1WB&vxp=mtr

I love fuel rail topics.. I made one for my 'primitive carb' set up. You fancy smancy guys with your injected fuel..

Here is one of two of the brackets I cobbled together and bolted to the intake and the rail. Again probably overkill since six very short and fairly rigid injector hoses are there for support.


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On 8/19/2017 at 10:06 PM, madkaw said:

Definitely looks cleaner . Now go aftermarket ECU and get rid of more stuff - like dizzy and wires !

I have heard the term Dizzy used many times but must admit I don't know what component you are referring to.  Please enlighten me!

Dizzy is short for distributor

Dizzy is short for distributor

Learn something new everyday!


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Look mom- no dizzy

I think the next thing for me is the linkage- about to go cable 

I think the upgrade to cable for me was the biggest improvement to the drivability of my car of all of the upgrades I have done.  I fought the OEM linkage for years and was never able to obtain an acceptable return to idle without having to kick the gas pedal.  On top of that I used a couple of return springs to help with the idle return, but that resulted in erratic pedal acceleration and poor drivability.

The cable changed all of that.  Smooth acceleration.  No linkage binding and a very smooth return to idle. Other than the built in return spring on the Harada manifold I use, there is nothing else on the linkage and my return to idle is perfect.   Cleaned up my engine bay with the spring removal and ended up with a big overall improvement to the drivability.  I would never go back to the OEM setup.

Mike.