LED Headlights

[w3wilkes]

Found lots of stuff in here on LED headlights, but not these specifically. Has anybody tried these in their 240?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BWQOW4/ref=psdc_318323011_t2_B01HD6HX8U

It looks like these will fit the stock H6024 cans.

[ramsesosirus]

Did you get a set ordered or installed?  I've started looking into new headlight options and LEDs are usually great all around as lighting components.  

I'm also interested in the wiring/etc.. relay req's for LEds, since they use less power.

[w3wilkes]

Still looking on headlights. I have started leaning more towards Grote

http://www.grote.com/products/90941-5-grote-7-inch-led-headlight-sealed-beam-replacement/

or Truck lite

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&urlLangId=-1&productId=48710

These 2 choices look more stock. I'm thinking that if I do all my exterior lighting with LED - marker, tail, license plate, front blinker/park, electronic flasher for blinkers and flashers to handle LED along with LED headlights I will not need to do any wiring changes since the power draw will be substantially reduced to the point where the wattage draw won't be an issue.

The one thing I've read about the LED's that sit behind a colored lens (blinkers, tail and markers) is you should get a bulb that is the same color as the lens. For instance if you put a white LED behind a red lens the lens will block all color from the bulb except red which will reduce the brightness of the bulb, so you should put a red LED bulb behind a red lens. https://www.superbrightleds.com/ sells colored bulbs to match the lens color you're putting it behind. They cost more, but with their rated life you should never have to replace them.

[w3wilkes]

Finally pulled the trigger on some H6024 LED headlights. Here's what I ordered

https://www.eaglelites.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015

Looks like they're probably made by the same manufacturer as the Truck-lite or Grote's. They list at $179.99 US for the pair and says they come with everything you need. If you go to close the page it will pop up a 10% discount code. I'm guessing the power requirements should drop to less than 4 amps for high and less than 2 amps for low beam.

Since I found my car is a "perdiddle" I figured I'd pull the trigger on these. I'll update when I get them in the car.

[ramsesosirus]

That's not bad for everything you get in the kit.

Do update with pics when you get it installed.

Most members here stick with the original look for the most part, some of the other sites would probably have more info. on aftermarket and non-OEM looking components.  I'm interested to see how those lights work, is it half circle for lows, both half circles for brights?  Is there a "border" too, like a circle outline (like some new BMW's)? 

I've been looking into upgrading headlights for awhile, should have the relay wiring kit and H4 conversion lenses (stock looking) this week.  

I wanted to do HID or LED, but both are more costly than I can spend right now (and I don't want to hack something together that blinds other drivers...)

You might already know this, but I discovered through my research that 4300 K (slightly yellow) is the best color temperature for visibility.  Higher numbers (cooler color temperature) decreases "usable" light, but often has a cooler look to it.  

I had tried Silverstars in my past 2 classic cars, hoping for the white light, but they are pretty much still yellowish.  Perhaps upgrading my headlight harness with relays with deliver more power to the lights. 

[w3wilkes]

The lights showed up and all the stuff was there, anti flicker H4 -> H13 adapter. The bulbs seem to be very well made, clear polycarbonate lens slightly convex with fairly stout aluminum housing. Pulled the first headlight can and plugged in the light, switched on the lights and... Nothing! Unplugged the light and plugged in the anti flicker harness and viola, let there be light! It's a tight fight but I was able to get the anti flicker harness and the bulb in the stock headlight can. The other thing I'll mention is the bulb alignment nubs, had to use pliers and slightly bend out the indents to fit the nubs on the bulb. The nubs stick out just enough further that the bulb wouldn't seat without a slight bending out of the alignment slots with some pliers. If I had to go back to standard bulbs the alignment slots would still be fine. Don't know why the bulbs won't fire without the anti flicker??

The bulbs look fairly stock in the car. When on low beam the light is all on the top half of the bulb, high beams light up both top and bottom. I think I might lower the aim slightly as they do throw out some light. Looks like a pretty clean cutoff line against the wall so I should be able to adjust not to blind oncoming cars.

We'll see how they hold up. At this price point they are a steal compared to all other comparable bulbs I've seen (they look just like the Truck-lite and Grote's). If you don't see more here it means they haven't failed.

We'll see how the 6000K color works out. I figure my night driving will be pretty minimal in this car anyway.

 

[ramsesosirus]

Cool.  Take some pictures when you have time, we'd like to see the setup.

I also do minimal night driving, but am going to start driving with my lights on during the day for visibility.  

For the headlight bucket/housing (the part that the wire feeds through), some people with "holesaw" the rear to make it larger, and so that you can change the bulbs from the wheel well without removing the lens.  Or the 280zx headlight bucket/housing already has a bigger cutout FYI.   

Is it all the stock wiring?  Stock should be fine for LED's since they draw less current.  I have a post in Electrical about my project, where I installed a "generic" harness with relays.  Pretty easy and I'm getting nearly 12V at the lights now. 

If the color temp. really is 6000K, it should look great.  6000K should be pretty pure white light with minimal blue tint.  

Sometimes LEDs have issues (like you had with the anti flicker) since they draw so much less current.  I wanted to use LED's in my dash gauges, but you have to add some kind of diode or something for this reason. 

[w3wilkes]

My dash lights are the only bulbs left in the car that aren't LED. I've done all tail, marker, front signals, rear signals, dome, map and glove box. Also did electronic blinker and hazard flashers to accommodate LED bulbs, that way I didn't have to install load resistors at the bulb end. As far as cutting the bucket goes, with the longevity of LED I should never have to change a bulb!

Yes, all stock wiring and with almost all bulbs being LED the overall harness load should be substantially reduced.

[SteveJ]

The load is substantially reduced. I've done the measurements. With the ignition off, I saw about 1 Amp draw on the running lights and gauge lights. I think the total draw was 3 or 4 Amps with the headlights on, too. 

[ramsesosirus]

38 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

The load is substantially reduced. I've done the measurements. With the ignition off, I saw about 1 Amp draw on the running lights and gauge lights. I think the total draw was 3 or 4 Amps with the headlights on, too. 

Which bulbs did you use for the dash lights and did you have to add anything else?  Are they "Dimmable"?  I would like to do this.

 

2 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

My dash lights are the only bulbs left in the car that aren't LED. I've done all tail, marker, front signals, rear signals, dome, map and glove box. Also did electronic blinker and hazard flashers to accommodate LED bulbs, that way I didn't have to install load resistors at the bulb end. As far as cutting the bucket goes, with the longevity of LED I should never have to change a bulb!

Yes, all stock wiring and with almost all bulbs being LED the overall harness load should be substantially reduced.

You're right about not having to change the headlights ever again haha.  

Where did you get the electronic flashers?  From what car?  Did you just plug in the LED type bulbs into the stock socket?  Does it look "stock", only brighter?

I'm not a fan of seeing a bunch of LED dots like you see on some cars.

 

I installed white face gauges last winter, and replaced the stock bulbs with blue tinted incandescent (basically colored stock bulbs) which I was disappointed with.  I really wish I would've put some LED's in there while I was at it.  Here's a write up I did about it.  Not a very dirty or hard job, but it is tedious under the dash and whatnot.  

 

[w3wilkes]

All bulbs plugged into standard sockets. I went to https://www.superbrightleds.com/ and just did a 1156 equivalent for sidemarkers, regular tail and backup lights and 1157 equivalent for blinker bulbs in LED and a BA9 for the glove box. They look bone stock. Be sure to order the bulb color that matches the lens you're putting it behind. For the flashers I ordered 2 of these, 1 for blinker and 1 for emergency flashers. Worked fine.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/65139883?cid=ppc-bing-New - Fleet Maintenance - PLA_EDmgDKpS__be_73667328438022_c_&mkwid=EDmgDKpS|dc&pcrid=73667328438022&product_id=65139883

[ramsesosirus]

Cool, thanks.  I think this will be my next upgrade.  With the cars reaching 40+ years old, I want to be as easy on the stock wiring and electrical components as possible.  And the LEDs should last a very long time.  

Did all the bulbs from Super bright fit in behind the lens?  It says some might not fit...

@SteveJ where did you get your gauge LEDs?  What color?  I know stock ones are "BA9".  

Just plugged them right in the OE socket, no resistors/etc.. added?  Is the light better?  I've already removed the green filters on the gauges.

Edited September 12, 2017 by ramsesosirus