LED Headlights

[w3wilkes]

Bulbs I bought from Superbright bulbs;

2 - 67-CW12-G: Cool White (license Plate)

2 - 67-A12-G: Amber (side markers)

2 - 67-R12-G: Red (side markers)

1 - BA9S-WHP: Cool White (glove box)

2 - 3110-CW18-CB: Cool White (map and dome lights)

All these fit without issue.

The LED tail 1156 & 1157 for tail in the color of the lens (red for tail white for reverse) and LED 1157 for front blinker (Amber) I got from local NAPA store. They all fit fine.

 

Edited September 12, 2017 by w3wilkes

[ramsesosirus]

Cool, thanks.  I just did some research and found that LEDs in the gauges actually don't usually brighten it up very much, since LEDs are directional and the Z gauges are set up to reflect the light (indirect).   The parts stores actually have 1157 set of 2 for $20, so cheaper than ordering online and NO WAITING!  

What I did after I was disappointed with the "blue" tinted incandescent BA9 bulbs was install this to my cig lighter, and used the mounting tape to put them on the bottom of the speedo and tach, and on the left side of the oil and volts (too much glare if you put these on the bottom). These are the exact ones.  There are only 4 lights, I didn't illuminate the clock since it doesn't work anyway.  There is a similar set at walmart, but it only has 2 lights.  They do light up very bright and blue.  Might be an option for you if you have trouble seeing the gauges at night, as most do.  Plus it looks pretty sweet from outside of the car to have blue gauges (mine have the white face so it's REALLY blue)

And I just turned off the dash lights with the dimmer.  Works for now and looks pretty cool.  I plan to take pics later today when i do my headlights, which have been delivered according to FedEx.  

 

[SteveJ]

I used two different types of sockets. The primary issue I had was finding generic BA9 LED bulbs with the correct polarity. I reversed the polarity on the parking light sockets on the tachometer, but then I had issues trying the same thing with the speedometer (for reasons that are too involved for me to type right now.). Plan B was to use wedge sockets. I used those sockets to replace the stock BA9 sockets. I could merely reverse the polarity of the bulb by pulling it out and swapping it around if need be. Replacing sockets or rewiring sockets isn't difficult on a 260Z or 280Z. That really isn't an option for the 240Z since those sockets are grounded to the gauge housings.

I did not use resistors. No need. They would be dimmable IF I ever bothered to replace the stock rheostat with the PWM that @Captain Obvious supplied me. On the other hand, I don't find a need to dim the gauge lights.

 

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! It's a dimmer. No it's a paperweight!

So my input on dimming dash LED's is that you may get a small amount of dimming function with the stock system if you just replace the bulbs with LED equivalents. But if you want a wide range of dimming (including full dark), you'll need to change over to a pulse width dimming system.

[SteveJ]

2 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Haha! It's a dimmer. No it's a paperweight!

Just like Shimmer! It's a floor polish AND a dessert topping!

[Captain Obvious]

Hahaha!! Exactly. I had forgotten about that one. Thanks! 

[w3wilkes]

Snap a couple of shots with my phone, all lights are LED... Not the best photo's but here ya go.

Edited September 13, 2017 by w3wilkes

[ramsesosirus]

Nice white light.  You should do a pic from inside (or next to ) the car with the lights on a wall 20' away to see the cutoff and illumination.  I am considering the CREE LED H4 bulbs, if they fit in the housing.  If not, I'd have to cut the housing.

Unfortunately, after several hours of work, my H4 upgrade yielded less than desirable results. The Autopal E code housings are nice, have a slight convex face, no "nipples", and worked fine with the stock housing/retaining ring.

But the Nokya 7000K 55/60W "Arctic white" H4 halogen bulbs have too much of a blue tint.  The light itself is a great white, but the tint on the bulbs (blue) reflects in the housing and makes the lens look blue (even in the daytime).  

The CREE LED H4's have a "Casper shield", so I might try those.  

I'm also going to upgrade to LED bulbs for the signals, brakes, etc.. on payday.  

Z headlights are a pain to change.  That's why, since I have the H4 replaceable bulbs now, I might just get a spare set and cut the hole larger.  

 

I just want some nice white light, without blinding anyone.  

 

Did those just plug into the stock connectors?  

[w3wilkes]

Yes, stock connectors. Had to use the anti-flicker modules which are stock connectors on both ends or the lights won't fire. The fun part was situating everything in the stock headlight buckets, but I was able to do it. Patience, patience, patience!

Nobody else comes even close to the price of these lights! These headlights can be had for the price of the headlight relay alone and then you've eliminated the need for the relay. If they live up to regular LED longevity it should be the last headlights you'll ever put in your car. No, I'm not affiliated.

https://www.eaglelites.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015

 

Edited September 13, 2017 by w3wilkes

[ramsesosirus]

I assume you haven't driven it in the dark yet, that will be the real test.

My research has concluded that a lot of LED lights look great, but don't project very far for visibility.  

Since you have the correct projector (assuming) housing, that may be a non issue.  

Do those bulbs have a large heat sink or fan on the back side for cooling?  Like this generic example?

They certainly appear too large for the stock housing.

EDIT: Upon following your link, it looks like the set you bought are like sealed LED beams?  The bulb doesn't appear removable, which is why they fit in the stock housing?  

Edited September 13, 2017 by ramsesosirus

[w3wilkes]

That is correct. These bulbs are basically like a sealed beam bulb (same size as a H6024 sealed beam standard 7" bulb), the actual light source is integrated. It's not like a 7" round housing that you then put your LED bulb in that then sticks out the back another few inches. It's like a standard H6024 sealed beam bulb that fits in the standard headlight bucket (with some patience to fit the anti flicker module in there too). From the lens back is cast aluminum, not plastic, so I don't see them having any warp issues from stress or heat. As you can see from the link there's quite a bit of aluminum surface area on the back of these bulbs for heat dissipation, no fan. I've got them in bog stock headlight buckets.

Since I'm heading out of town and the car is currently sitting on blocks while I finish some other stuff that requires underneath access I won't be doing the wall picks for a week or 2, but from the light on the wall about 5 feet in front of the car it appears to have a fairly crisp cut off line.

[ramsesosirus]

Cool, thanks.  That's probably better, since the bulbs are designed specifically for the lenses.  

That makes me think that any of the LED bulbs that ARE removable won't fit in the stock housing, doesn't look to be at least.

Looks like a good design with the heat sinks.  I've heard that LED headlights produce a lot of heat on the back/connector side for some reason that I don't know.  It seems crazy to have a fan to cool light bulbs.  But I think it's covered with your setup.  It would be interesting to see what kind of voltage you are getting to the LED's through the stock wiring. I suppose it's not a big deal if it's less than 12v, due to the nature of LEDs.  

Have a good trip, I'm sure by the time you get back I'll have those harbor freight LED flashlights installed and running haha.