Heater valve copper thermostat wire-do I have to remove the dash?

[882993md]

Hi everyone,

I have a leaking heater valve and I have to remove it to send it in as a core to get a rebuilt unit.

The copper thermostat wire runs into the hot air housing and I am wondering if it's possible to remove stuff in front of it for access, or must I remove the whole dash board to disconnect that wire?

Howard
74 260z

[Captain Obvious]

I would be happy to be proven wrong, but I don't think you will be able to get enough stuff out of the way to get it out. I think you need to remove the whole heater control head at minimum.

You have A/C, right? That makes it worse. I think even the evaporator box might be in the way.

[882993md]

[Captain Obvious]

Yeah, like I said, I would be happy to be wrong, but the A/C cars are really packed in there. I know I could take the control head out of my non-A/C car without pulling the whole dash, but I'm skeptical about the ones with A/C. I haven't tried.

But pulling the dash isn't the end of the world. Gets easier every time. IMHO, draining the Freon out of the A/C system if necessary would be more of a problem...

[882993md]

Luckily the compressor isn't connected so I don't have to worry about freon. 

It's kind of amusing actually that I have to disassemble so much to access two tiny sheet metal screws. 

[Captain Obvious]

Well I certainly would try to get it out without pulling the dash first. Maybe you'll get lucky and can manage to get enough stuff out of the way.

That copper tube goes about three inches or so into the airbox and then is formed into a coil about an inch in diameter. The point is, you need direct straight on access, not only to get the two screws out, but also to pull the assy out of the airbox. It's incredibly easy if there's nothing in front, but like you said... you have to disassemble so much to access two tiny sheet metal screws.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[siteunseen]

This helped me more than any other tool while I replaced my valve and hoses under there.  Can't imagine pulling the whole thing out. 

Quarter inch socket and driver with a 1/4" socket with screwdriver bits.

[882993md]

Hi everyone,

I tried to prove Captain Obvious wrong but failed. With the a/c evaporator sitting there blocking the mounting plate for the copper tube it is impossible to access the screws. The dash was actually easy to remove. The heater valve is on it's way to Z Car Source of Arizona for direct exchange for a rebuilt unit.

Siteunseen, I did have to purchase an offset ratcheting screw driver like the one you pictured in order to remove several screws.

Edited September 6, 2017 by 882993md

[Patcon]

32 minutes ago, 882993md said:

 

I tried to prove Captain Obvious wrong but failed

I could have told you that's not possible! Isn't that obvious...

[Captain Obvious]

You give me way too much credit. 

Sorry you couldn't prove me wrong on this one. I was really hoping you could. So much work for two stupid little screws! I've pulled the dash a number of times, and I agree. It's not really that difficult, just awkward. The A/C evaporator in there really crowds things. If it weren't for that, you would probably have been able to get to it from the front.

Anyway, glad you got it out, and here's hoping you're back on the road in no time!

[882993md]

Hi everyone,

I have the refurbished  heater valve installed.

 

I’m just about ready to reinstall the instrument panel,  however for the life of me I have no clue where these two parts go. 

I’m pretty good at taking pictures but I can’t find one pic that contains these two parts. Any ideas where they are installed? 

Howard

’74 260z

 

Edited September 24, 2017 by 882993md

[siteunseen]

@SteveJ is the forums 260 guru. He may be able to shed some light on your issue.