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Choke Cable Grommet Installation 1972 240z


nbenning

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Hello,  I purchased a dual choke cable grommet/boot for my 1972 240z.  I've done some console repairs specifically around the choke cable lever mechanism.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how to install the grommet/boot? From the end of the cable attached to the carb?  This would require removing the boot and crimps right?

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Mine are torn and loose but it doesn't affect my chokes.

What you REALLY need is the choke handle mounted to the sheet metal on the trans tunnel. Best $30 you'll spend. No more cracked console and it lets you remove the console without fooling with the choke. I haven't had my console in for over a year now, choke lever is firmly in place and works great.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49138-choke-lever-mount-broken-under-console/

 

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I temporarily used a NOS '72 choke cable on my '70 and had to remove the boots. To do that I just carefully pulled them off using linesman plies with the jaws wrapped in electrical tape. Later I put them back on using the same method before I sold that cable and had no issues.

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2 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

I temporarily used a NOS '72 choke cable on my '70 and had to remove the boots. To do that I just carefully pulled them off using linesman plies with the jaws wrapped in electrical tape. Later I put them back on using the same method before I sold that cable and had no issues.

Hey CantechZ you may be able to help a guy out on  PCV hose. Difference between '70 & '72.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/58451-pcv-hose-question/?tab=comments#comment-529523

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Thanks for the feedback.  Probably take "siteunseen's" advice and "CanTechZ".  I've pulled the sleeving off and will give it a good cleaning and lube.  I'll see about removing the forward end clamps and run the boot through the two sleeves.  I like the idea of mounting the choke mechanism to the tunnel body.  I had to do some creative bonding of a metric equivalent thread to replace the broken/stripped plastic threads on the console.

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I promise you'll pat yourself on the back after seeing that bracket. The instructions are kinda vague but if you'll read some threads on installing it you'll be more confident on the position. The first one I did was too far back, had to go towards the radio about a half of an inch to get full choke action.

Another thing, route the choke light switch wires where they won't get friction from the handle. I made that mistake too but luckily figured it out before wearing the insulation off the wires.

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Another option (which may or may not appeal):

Rubber/neoprene grommets respond really well to 'super glue' (aka KrazyGlue').  Just slice the grommet across half its width, position over the cables, apply a drop of glue to the cut surface, carefully line up the edges, and press together for 30 seconds.  Job done.  If you do it carefully, the joint will be pretty much invisible... and more than strong enough to withstand the distortion of the grommet when you push it into place in the hole in the firewall. 

If you need convincing, buy a generic grommet from the hardware store and try it out.

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