Throttle Cable Upgrade - All The Way To The Pedal?

[Captain Obvious]

I'm considering a throttle cable upgrade and I'm soliciting input. I searched around a little and the ones I've seen attached to the throttle linkage in the engine compartment. That works fine, but has anyone gone whole hog all the way to the pedal?

Has anyone connected the cable directly to the gas pedal and completely eliminated the stock linkage?

(PS - I know this is a fuel related question and I put it in general. I didn't want to put it in the carbs or FI sub-forum, because what I'm looking into could pertain to either.

[Travel'n Man]

Yes years ago. Great mod and no more linkage slop


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[Zup]

Lokar makes a full cable replacement kit.

Not your way, but--MSA sells the same kit modified to attach directly to the accelerator pedal. They added a ball socket angled to attach there.

I'm sure HybridZ has some threads on the subject.

@Mike W has done the cable conversion but I am uncertain if it goes to the pedal,

[Mike W]

@Zup is correct.  I have done this upgrade using the universal Lokar throttle cable, and yes it goes all the way to the pedal.  It is one of the best, if not the best upgrade I have done to my car.  I run triple Webers and always had a return to idle problem with the stock linkage.  I tried literally for years to get the stock linkage to work properly, including the addition of 2 return springs and was never satisfied.  The return springs definitely impacted drivability and still didn't totally resolve the return to idle issue.  I finally bit the bullet and went with the Lokar cable and what a difference that made.  The throttle response was much smoother and the return to idle problem disappeared.  I was even able to remove both of the return springs and now I only use the integrated spring that isa part of the Harada manifold setup. I couldn't be happier. My only regret is that I wish I had done this years ago.

Hope that helps.

Mike.

[David F]

I am new to Z cars and recently got my 1972 240z running after 15 years of storage.  It definitely had a return to idle issue that I thought was pollution equipment related.  After removing all the pollution equipment, the problem remained.  I had rebuilt the carbs and new the throttle valve linkage was well lubricated and easily returned to fully closed position.  So, something else had to be wrong.  Turned out all that was required was removing all ball joints cleaning out the old grease and gunk, apply some new white grease and presto:  very smooth throttle that returns to idle every time.  Don't forget the linkage that goes through the firewall.

[Captain Obvious]

Thanks guys. I've recently cobbled an alternative throttle body onto my EFI, and it's working great. Fantastic even. Smooth as butter. I modified the throttle body to work with the stock linkage, but it was originally set-up for a cable. For proof of concept, It was faster for me to convert the throttle body to work with the stock linkage than it was to convert the whole linkage system over to cable. I'm getting ready for my off-season modifications, and the cable mod will probably be one of them.

Mike, when I went digging, mention of your conversion came up, but for some reason I thought you attached in the engine compartment. Do you have any pics of the details under the dash? How is the cable jacket held in place?

[ksechler]

I used this universal cable from summit racing.  I had to actually do some cut and weld modifications at the pedal end of things to make the connector fit nicely.  If you want details PM me and I'll take some photos.

 

Edited September 6, 2017 by ksechler

[Patcon]

@ksechler

Not to thread jack, but have you ever written up your ignition set up?

[zKars]

I do a pretty nifty throttle cable setup to the pedal. Both for SU's and triple whatever. I use the lokar kit as a starting point, and solder on a 8mm ball socket to bare cable end that snaps right on the pedal ball. Simple washer based system at the fire wall to fasten the cable sheath nut there. Trick here is the pedal ball is close to the fire wall when the pedal is at the "off" position, so you can't use the long ball cable end that comes with the Lokar kit, hence the short soldered on ball socket. 

The carb end has a couple of options depending on your setup. Needs a brackat somewhere to hold the cable sheath at that end. 

I don't have an handy pictures that show it all too clearly, but here is the SU based one, at least the SU end. It uses a commercially available arm that conveniently attaches/clamps to the carb center linkage rod. Not the best shot of here, the second pic shows the end of the rod clamp.

 

When the 44's were on her. Nothing shocking here at the carb end. I have to make up another set for a buddy, I'll try to take pics of the pedal end and the washer arrangement I make for the fire wall.

 

Edited September 6, 2017 by zKars

[tamo3]

I modified pedal following Arizona Z car's web site. I still haven't installed it yet.

FYI:

http://www.arizonazcar.com/cableinstall.html

 

[Captain Obvious]

Thanks for the additional info.

Jim, When you get a chance, I'd be interested in some pics of your soldered on ball at the pedal end.

So out of curiosity, has anyone done anything that did NOT start with a Lokar kit?

[ksechler]

15 hours ago, Patcon said:

@ksechler

Not to thread jack, but have you ever written up your ignition set up?

No, I'll put something together one of these days... :-)