Installing Headlight Relay Harness

[Zs-ondabrain]

I make a "Hard-Wire" version but everyone complains about having to cut their connectors off.
Everyone wants plug and play for ease of install but they'll never remove it..... clear as mud??

I make the late 74 to 76' 280Z HW-HLH for $120 shipped.
The relays are easily replaced with auto parts store relays.

Dave

[ramsesosirus]

2 hours ago, Zs-ondabrain said:

I make a "Hard-Wire" version but everyone complains about having to cut their connectors off.
Everyone wants plug and play for ease of install but they'll never remove it..... clear as mud??

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

People would probably buy a Cut "n" Play product.  If the relays are common and replaceable, it would be a no-need-to-go-back system.  Permanent.

 

Thanks all;  I did the install of the harness after work today.  When the H4 lens and bulbs arrive, we will see the result, and measure some voltage/pics.  

When I did all of my research, (weeks) again and again I found what @Zs-ondabrain and @Zed Head said, being that there is no PnP solution and cutting wires because 280z round connector... etc... again and again, but the 240z connector is available... 

While this kit I bought online was too short, all I ended up having to modify was adding about 6' or so of wire to the wires (12' total: 2 wires) (16gage wire and butt connectors)

I expected to be splicing into the harness due to the connector issue.  And I didn't care, mines not mint and I see it as a permanent upgrade.

But as @Captain Obvious and @zKars advised, I just plugged the connector into the OEM headlight connector, leaving the Driver's side one taped up and zip-tied in place.

I was able to very easily use a small pointed pick tool to release the terminals from the connectors, both the OEM and the new ones were very easy.  Learned that today, prior I would have spliced the wires, not knowing you could obviously remove the terminals.  I did have the bend the tabs a little to get them to stay when reinstalling into connector.

The stock wire has a hard to describe crimp in the sheathing that makes it tough to pull out of the housing.  I tried cutting it, but after 42 years it almost started pulling the wire insulation off with it.  But you can get it out by twisting/pulling.   Removed and inserted wires one at a time, the stock hole is small.  

Pulled the stock RH wires to near the vacuum tank, plugged into new connector.  Placed relays under existing relay cover (by fusible links)NOTE: Apparently the sealed beam and H4 connectors are the same size/configuration, but the HI/LO pinouts are switched.  The new harness I got looked like it corrected this.  

On an odd SIDE NOTE, the looks like some type of liquid had leaked a little under that black relay cover plate..???? No idea.  Only electrical components/relays/voltage reg. under there I thought.  hopefully it's some magical Z fluid... Ok continue...

I still don't understand how by doing this, power is pulled from the battery.  I'm still technically still using the OEM stock system: I turn on the lights in the car, the stock system operates all the way to the Passenger OEM headlight connector, and then begins going through the relay system.  Electronics are not my strong point.  

So technically, could I use this "3rd" headlight that is physically hanging, to power a third light or another upgrade/component/light?  It's still (supposed to be delivering) 12V?  

Should I change the OEM fuses in the stock fuse box to a lesser amperage, since nothing??? runs off these fuses now? Or does it?  5A?  10A? (stock is 10 per headlight)

 

So now all I have to do (supposedly), is receive my new housings, and connect the new plugs to the H4 bulbs, install ring, bucket, and splash shield.  

 

Where does the round connector cause an issue?  Or is there a problem with this setup?  It seems like a super easy install (which it was basically), yet all of my research says it shouldn't be?

It's like picture me with stacks of electrical drawings, wires, tools, etc... sweating as I carefully track each 4 decade old wire routing, surely the designers of which are long gone.  My hands trembling with the wire snippers in my hand.  Red?  Or is it the green?? A bead of sweat drips in slow motion off of my face.  I look at the tire shaped clock in my storage unit...  I squint my eyes as I position the no-return wire cutters around the suspected wire.  If I'm wrong, there's no going back... 

And then, I see it, in the sky, is it a bird?  A Plane?  NO! NO Way! it's freaking Captain Obvious riding in the sky, in a Z being pulled by 6 unicorn reindeer with tie dyed antlers with sunglasses.  And he says "Just plug it into the old headlight.  Which one?  Well, my lad, either one really, but pick the closer one!"

Cue product.

Really though?  What am I missing???

 

Edited September 9, 2017 by ramsesosirus
grammur

[Zs-ondabrain]

2 hours ago, ramsesosirus said:

Thanks all;  I did the install of the harness after work today.  When the H4 lens and bulbs arrive, we will see the result, and measure some voltage/pics.  

When I did all of my research, (weeks) again and again I found what @Zs-ondabrain and @Zed Head said, being that there is no PnP solution and cutting wires because 280z round connector... etc... again and again, but the 240z connector is available... 

 

 

Yes, the 240Z connectors Are still available but unless they are crimped correctly and tight, they don't like to fit the larger red/white (high beam wire) very well.
Ive actually done it to a few 280Z's but had to drill out the connector where the red/white was to go to make room for larger gauge wire.

But again, a true Headlight upgrade harness will likely NEVER be removed, so going through the trouble of attaching weather-pack or 240Z style connectors, is Almost pointless....

Just my 2cents

Dave

[Captain Obvious]

Yes, you are still using the stock system, but here's the difference... From the factory, the stalk switch and all the original wiring sent power to the headlights. Now with the harness you just installed, the stalk and original wires send power to the relays instead, and the relays switch the power to the bulbs themselves.

So the trick is that the relays only draw like maybe half an Amp total, while the headlights will pull almost ten Amps. That reduction of current through the column switches and original wires relaxes the load on the old tired dirty system.

Then where does the high current come from to actually run the bulbs?  That's the new fused connection(s) that you tie right to the battery. With those new connections, the relays will pull current directly right from the battery, pass it through the bulbs, and then return to ground with the two new ground lug connections you made on the upgrade harness.

The bottom line is that with that new upgrade harness, the relays do the heavy lifting, while the switches on the column just tell the relays what to do.

Lets see. What else? I'd be surprised to learn that they moved the connections around between the old sealed beams and the H4 bulbs. I didn't look into it, but wanted to challenge you on that. They swapped hi and low beams? Not saying they didn't, but kinda surprised if they did. You sure about that?

Yeah, I forgot about that fused cable jacket inside the bucket. They heat fused all that stuff together in an effort to seal the harness jacket against water coming in. Sounds like you handled it fine. When I went through this, I made the holes in the back of the buckets a little larger and used larger grommet seals. Just large enough to be able to pass the connector shell through the housing without having to take the contacts out again.

About the fusing - You plugged the new harness into one of the original headlight bulb connectors. The fuse for that side (right) can be replaced with a 1A instead of the original 10A. And the fuse for the left side can be removed completely. Empty slot.

And I'm a little unclear about the 30A fuse in the new harness. I'm thinking that maybe it's a dual fuse? Their drawing shows two fuses, and two wires? Can you take a pic of that part of the upgrade harness to make sure there's no confusion?

I loved your little descriptive story. I understand completely! That's exactly how I feel when I approach anything to do with body work. I can deal with the electricals and mechanicals, but I'm in cold sweat mode when it comes to the body!  

[Captain Obvious]

21 hours ago, ramsesosirus said:

Ok, I think you were recommending exactly what the Captain said, to use the actual headlight plug.

zKars and I were saying the same thing. He just said it with a Canadian accent, eh.      Haha!!

[ramsesosirus]

On 9/9/2017 at 9:47 AM, Captain Obvious said:

Lets see. What else? I'd be surprised to learn that they moved the connections around between the old sealed beams and the H4 bulbs. I didn't look into it, but wanted to challenge you on that. They swapped hi and low beams? Not saying they didn't, but kinda surprised if they did. You sure about that?

And I'm a little unclear about the 30A fuse in the new harness. I'm thinking that maybe it's a dual fuse? Their drawing shows two fuses, and two wires? Can you take a pic of that part of the upgrade harness to make sure there's no confusion?

 

Thanks for all of the replies, I appreciate it.  I guess a lot of people are probably deterred from doing this project since, like I found, all of the research points to splicing wires into the stock system.  I finished the install and did not cut any stock wire.  Only added some length to the new harness, which is just a generic H4 harness you can find online, with the connector to your car being a male sealed beam 3 prong connector.  

Captain, I found conflicting info on the sealed beam terminals.  A few showed they were the same, a few showed the Hi and LO switched.  I'd have to verify this, but the bottom line is that the H4 all showed the top being the LO beam.  So upon install, I verified that the top spade has 12 V with the lights on, and then (one of) the side spades had 12V with the brights on.  I guess my actual measurements were about 11.8V, not too bad.  Either way, switching on of the pinout wires is easy if the terminals are different.  If you google it, you'll see that certain sealed beams did seem to have the Hi/Lo switched.  See the below pics, I know 4656 is a rectangle sealed beam.  Can't confirm this change, just be aware when you are testing the terminals.  I'm glad I did, I managed to switch the wires somehow when splicing the driver's side.  Testing with a voltmeter allowed me to see this, and correct it.  FYI the stock connectors need the pin pushed from the wire side, while the new connectors need the pin pushed from the other side (headlight terminal/female) side.  

 

I did plug in my Sylvania Silverstar sealed beams to see, and they definitely are brighter (albeit still somewhat yellow). I'm hoping to get some nice white (modern looking) light with the H4's (I got some 7000K bulbs, which I know is very high and supposedly blueish, but halogens have a hard time not producing yellow light). We'll see....

I guess I'm still confused as to why you would even mess with finding 240z or 280z connectors when you just plug the kit into an existing HL socket?  What I did works exactly as it should: 12V (nearly) at the sockets, and the ability to change to different H4 bulbs, as well as upgrade the HL system even further in the future if wanted, due to the new harness.

Yes, the drawing the harness seller supplied showed 2 fuses, one for each relay (HI/Lo).. but the product I got only had one 30A fuse for the whole system (one wire to battery).  If you look at the pic of the harness early in this post, you'll see it's only 1 fused wire.  I contacted the seller about this, since it was not what was advertised.  The thinking is that if you have 2 fuses, and one blows, you would at least still have either your Highs or Lows to get off the road.  

I'm expecting my housings tomorrow, and will post some pics and details about the bulbs.  As well as some general pics of my car's progress, I've had it for 10 years now!   I like to think I saved it, as someone had obviously had a gigantic wing and underglows on it at some point...  

Thanks again, if all goes as expected (or close to it...) I'll have a nice upgrade for about $100 (plus a few hours of work and scratched knuckles).  Anyone who would like more details or information on this great upgrade is more than welcome to contact me.  

Edited September 10, 2017 by ramsesosirus

[Captain Obvious]

Glad you got things working!

Just make double sure you have the terminals in the correct locations. The common is easy to find, and depending on how good your Ohmmeter is, you might be able to identify the HI and LO filament connections as well. I did have this drawing in my files. Might help explain some of the issue Seems almost evil of them to have done this?

About the fuses, if there is only one fuse, I'd use 20A (instead of the 30 the harness came with). If you somehow get the harness manufacturer to give you something with two fuses, then I'd use a pair of 10's (just like the original Datsun configuration).

And as for the different harness upgrade options... The other already available plug-n-play harness options for the earlier years are much simpler to install since you don't need to have access inside the headlight buckets. So there's the tradeoff. For the 240 and 260, the other harness is plug and play without taking the bulbs out. Makes it easier.

You, with the 280, don't have that as an option. Compound that with the fact that you were already planning to replace the headlights with something newer and were going to have the bulbs out of the buckets. Wasn't going to be any additional work for you. Different strokes.

[ramsesosirus]

I think I get it now.  If you wanted to ONLY upgrade to include relays, while keeping the stock sealed beam setup, then you need to use the OEM type connectors or splice.  BUT if you are using different headlights/bulbs/convrsion, THEN a generic harness plugged into the existing headlight will work.  This makes sense.

Yes, switching the 3 is weird... but I've seen some odd engineering decisions on before. Should be some kind of industry standard or something.  Would make it easier.  Not sure about it still, but a good reminder to check the polarity upon install.  Don't want to be running the brights thinking they are the lows, and vice versa. 

Edited September 11, 2017 by ramsesosirus

[ramsesosirus]

Unfortunately, after several hours of work, my H4 upgrade yielded less than desirable results. The Autopal E code housings are nice, have a slight convex face, no "nipples", and worked fine with the stock housing/retaining ring.

That being said, I can already see that the relay upgrade is worth it, much more power to the lights (regardless of the bulb)

But the Nokya 7000K 55/60W "Arctic white" H4 halogen bulbs have too much of a blue tint.  The light itself is a great white, but the tint on the bulbs (blue) reflects in the housing and makes the lens look blue (even in the daytime).  

The CREE LED H4's have a "Casper shield", so I might try those.  

I'm also going to upgrade to LED bulbs for the signals, brakes, etc.. on payday.  

Z headlights are a pain to change.  That's why, since I have the H4 replaceable bulbs now, I might just get a spare set and cut the hole larger.  

 

I just want some nice white light, without blinding anyone.  I've seen older classics with "white" headlights, and it looks great.  Especially if someone thinks it's a new BMW or something... but it's a 40 year old Z!  

I'm considering the: Philips Diamond Vision, the CREE LEDs, Osram Nightbreakes, and an LED flashlight from harbor freight tools duct taped into the housing.  Or I could go real old school and install some candles and make a lantern setup.  I might have to hop out at stoplights at re-light the candle, but we're talking no current draw from the vehicle.  

Edited September 13, 2017 by ramsesosirus

[Captain Obvious]

I noticed a huge difference in the brightness (whiteness) of my old original sealed beams after doing the headlight relay upgrade. I don't know what my car looks like coming at me in traffic with the headlights on, but it's gotta be a lot whiter and a lot less yellow than it used to be now that the filaments are getting more current.

Before the upgrade, I was getting less than 10 Volts at the filaments. I think I was getting eight something on high beams. Now that I've done the upgrade, I'm getting darn near full battery voltage. No surprise, but it really makes a difference!

Oh, and sorta related... I took a look back through my notes and had this in there about the Autopal H4 housings:
Some people say they aren't thick enough and will rattle around if not padded with a spacer - A1L-11-04-2011

So I don't know if you found that to be the case, but I've heard others have had slight issues with fitment.

[ramsesosirus]

12 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Oh, and sorta related... I took a look back through my notes and had this in there about the Autopal H4 housings:
Some people say they aren't thick enough and will rattle around if not padded with a spacer - A1L-11-04-2011

So I don't know if you found that to be the case, but I've heard others have had slight issues with fitment.

Good point Cap, I do remember reading about that when searching the project, but when I installed them yesterday (2 hours to change headlights... had to keep adjusting the lens in the retaining ring, broke a wire and had to fix, hard to get to screws...) they seemed to be snug.

However, today when i adjusted the beams, I definitely noticed a small gap that will rattle.  You are correct.  Mine are the Autopal E-Codes, mostly because I ordered without looking too closely, or I would've gotten the DOT ones (even though I heard E code is a better standard), since I don't need any more legal issues.  

What would you recommend I use?  I heard some pieces of vacuum tubing behind the rings.  That's kind of rigged... but one of my fenders is held in alignment with a large cable tie (the screw mount on the bottom is broken off or rusted, can't remember, but it's held for 8 years.  Might need to upgrade the zip tie).

Stick on foam tape??  Hmm I think some kind of large 7" O-ring might be best.  I'm concerned about the heat melting it though.

Thanks for all you guys' advice, what a great and professional forum.  Here's a few pics I shot last evening before my camera battery died (I don't have a smartphone... but I do have a classic Z! We all have priorities)

These are the Autopal H4 housings with Nokya 60/55W Arctic Blue bulbs: 11.8V at the sockets.  Very nice white light, but since the bulb is tinted a bright blue, I get some blue color in the lens (not the light).  I plan to switch to something lower Kelvin wise, like the Osram Nightbreaker or similar.  I should mention that the ebay seller than sold me the (too short) relay harness gave me a partial refund, so no real loss on the harness.  It works as it should.  I think the ebay name is "rodtiques", I'd recc them, knowing you might have to add some wire (cost me about $12 plus time).

And also a bonus pic of the result of my white face gauge project: the blue coated incandescent bulbs were really weak, so I turned them off and used the "Dashlitz" 4 stick on LEDs that plug into the 12V socket.  They look great- until I can possibly get some LEDs behind the dash.  I didn't light the clock since there are only 4 lights.  

Yes, those are "custom" (rigged) signal/parking lights.  I thought the air dam brake ducts looked empty, so I put a 240z grille in there and relocated the lights.  I used some "Afterburnerz" clear "fog" lights with the stock wiring and bulbs.  AAAAAnd they are cable tied in place.  The lenses actually fit the square slot perfectly.  I like to do some "tasteful" custom work when i see fit.  I've only ever seen 1 series one Z at the U-Pull-It yard, so I got as much as I could.  Planning to put LED's all around next week.

I took a quick spin today and some guy pulled alongside and yelled "That's a badass Z!  (Expletive) sweet!!!  I waved.  Lots of people appreciate these cars.  But I still had at least 2 tailgaters.  Every time...

I'm starting to like this car more than my 87 Monte SS that I had, and that says a lot.  A Buick Grand National used to be my dream car, but I might just have my dream car right here.  I'm kind of running out of stuff do to do it, since it's running and stopping and looking great now.  So I'm onto the upgrades.  Yes, it could use a total resto (holes in floor pans, cracked paint), but it's too nice to not use it as is.  Someone seemed to have undercoated it at some point, slowing the rust, rare in the Midwest.

Edited September 14, 2017 by ramsesosirus
Added pics

[Captain Obvious]

I don't have any first hand experience with spacing the thin Autopal housings, but of the suggested solutions you mentioned, I think I would try the sticky foam tape first.

Failing that, maybe some latex or silicone tubing? I think I would like them better than traditional vacuum tubing because they are softer?