Home Built Z 'Full video build'

[wheee!]

Really good progress Jeff! What type of rattle can primer are you spraying over the weld repairs on the rear quarters? Sandable, zinc phosphate, self etching?

[Jason240z]

On 1/20/2018 at 7:53 PM, 240260280 said:

Here is how the pros fake the gap.  Bondo and parallel blade.

 

bondo is not how the pros do it.  Pro's do it with metal.

[Home Built by Jeff]

6 hours ago, wheee! said:

Really good progress Jeff! What type of rattle can primer are you spraying over the weld repairs on the rear quarters? Sandable, zinc phosphate, self etching?

It is just a zinc based primer to protect the bare metal until I am ready to paint it properly.

[wheee!]

1 hour ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

It is just a zinc based primer to protect the bare metal until I am ready to paint it properly.

Does that mean you remove the zinc primer and respray the 2k epoxy? Or do you just paint over the zinc?

[Home Built by Jeff]

On 3/3/2018 at 9:02 AM, wheee! said:

Does that mean you remove the zinc primer and respray the 2k epoxy? Or do you just paint over the zinc?

I will sand a lot of it off when I go to put the 2k high fill primer on, but some of it will still be there, but it won't be an issue for very small areas.

 

 

[Home Built by Jeff]

This week is all about the rear end and who doesn't like a nice rear end.

 

[wheee!]

I will sand a lot of it off when I go to put the 2k high fill primer on, but some of it will still be there, but it won't be an issue for very small areas.

I found the degreaser would start to remove the zinc primer and I was concerned the top coat would not have a good base to adhere to in those spots. The 2K epoxy is super well bonded to the sheet metal.

[Home Built by Jeff]

5 hours ago, wheee! said:

I found the degreaser would start to remove the zinc primer and I was concerned the top coat would not have a good base to adhere to in those spots. The 2K epoxy is super well bonded to the sheet metal.

The tiny areas which are remaining should not be an issue, as the surface will be keyed again with 80 grit and then high filled, I am not concerned.

[wheee!]

Nice work on the rear bumper Jeff! Did you butt weld the ends to the main bar or did you lap weld them?

[Home Built by Jeff]

19 hours ago, wheee! said:

Nice work on the rear bumper Jeff! Did you butt weld the ends to the main bar or did you lap weld them?

They already step in and overlap, so I just lap welded them. Butt welding would require far too much work to beat out the recess to line up with the rest of the bar, and then it probably wouldn't be as strong anyway  

[esmit208]

On 3/10/2018 at 4:02 PM, Home Built by Jeff said:

They already step in and overlap, so I just lap welded them. Butt welding would require far too much work to beat out the recess to line up with the rest of the bar, and then it probably wouldn't be as strong anyway  

As usual nice work. I gave up on my metal bonnet also. So no great defeat there just common sense. Going with carbon fiber. Has a more natural shape and will never rust. I probably would have butt welded the bumper. Sandwich areas are always the first to rust. A bit time consuming but no beating. Just cut out the recess and trim to fit.

[Home Built by Jeff]

6 hours ago, esmit208 said:

As usual nice work. I gave up on my metal bonnet also. So no great defeat there just common sense. Going with carbon fiber. Has a more natural shape and will never rust. I probably would have butt welded the bumper. Sandwich areas are always the first to rust. A bit time consuming but no beating. Just cut out the recess and trim to fit.

That is true. I avoid lap welding wherever I can for that very reason. I will have to flip it over at some stage and do something there to make sure the rust is slowed at least. May be hard to cut the end of it off now that it would have to be done from inside the bar. I will sort something out