9 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

I have spent the last week sweating it out in the heat fitting seatbelts and reassembling the doors. 

Wrong crowd. 

 

Although, it does look toasty down there.

https://www.theguardian.com/australia-news/2019/jan/19/australia-swelters-as-relentless-hot-weather-smashes-records

Just swap the handles left to right!, you dont need to get a new one.

13 minutes ago, tzagi1 said:

Just swap the handles left to right!, you dont need to get a new one.

I did actually look at that, but it looks like I have one 240z door and on 260z door. The other handle will only work on the passenger side. Grrr!

Well....look at the bright side, you now have a spare LH (not passenger)door handle now.

BTW, that break is classic, if anyone attempts to open the door while its locked it will break every time. Happened to me more then a few times..

On 1/4/2019 at 6:04 PM, Zed Head said:

Actually, to go a little further, you might pressure test the system while it's out.  The control valves tend to go bad also, besides the common leaky heater core.

Some of the guys have developed alternative cores as replacements, and alternative control valves.  Worthy upgrades.  CO did both.  @Captain Obvious

I agree while I had mine out I replaced the core, the short hose and valve with aftermarket and fit was perfect.

In this episode, I tackle the trimming on the rear wheel arches.

 

 

Love that sewing machine!

In this episode I sort out the final fit up of the front end.

 

 

 

I can’t remember if you braced the urethane air dam. Most people find they flex and droop at speed.

3 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

In this episode I sort out the final fit up of the front end.

 

 

 

Jeff,

You mentioned in this video that you plan to mount the seat belt retractor on the wheel well. That is a really bad idea, unless you install an anchor point up high on the pillar.  If you anchor it down low, so that it just goes up and over your shoulder, then down again to clip into the buckle, you could compress your spine in a crash.

I do some racing with NASA (National Auto Sports Association) here in the U.S.. Here is the section in the regulations that addresses this:

"The shoulder harness should be mounted behind the driver and above a line drawn downward from the shoulder point at an angle of no more than twenty (20) degrees from horizontal with respect to flat ground. "

I hope this makes sense to you.  If you have questions, let me know.

Marty 

Edited January 29, 20196 yr by Marty Rogan

6 hours ago, wheee! said:

I can’t remember if you braced the urethane air dam. Most people find they flex and droop at speed.

This one is Fibreglass, not Urethane so it should  not flex a crazy amount.

 

4 hours ago, Marty Rogan said:

Jeff,

You mentioned in this video that you plan to mount the seat belt retractor on the wheel well. That is a really bad idea, unless you install an anchor point up high on the pillar.  If you anchor it down low, so that it just goes up and over your shoulder, then down again to clip into the buckle, you could compress your spine in a crash.

I do some racing with NASA (National Auto Sports Association) here in the U.S.. Here is the section in the regulations that addresses this:

"The shoulder harness should be mounted behind the driver and above a line drawn downward from the shoulder point at an angle of no more than twenty (20) degrees from horizontal with respect to flat ground. "

I hope this makes sense to you.  If you have questions, let me know.

Marty 

I am still going to use the factory C pillar mount for the redirect so the angles will be as per factory. It is because the inertia reels are designed to be mounted vertically otherwise they won't work properly.