In this episode I finish off painting the last of the bits of the 680g.

 

Dear Jeff, who is teaching you all these nonsense ignition theories?

Tell you what, Got whatsupp on your phone? +19402069747, afternoons, pacific time. I'll sort it for you. No need to thank me, its painful (to me) to see yah fighting with it, for god's sake, take something simple as pouring wizz out of a boot and over complicate it by a factor of 100.

Jeff make sure you have the right length screws for mounting the locks. A screw too long can interfere with the operation. Try backing the top screw out some to see if that helps.


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

8 hours ago, tzagi1 said:

Dear Jeff, who is teaching you all these nonsense ignition theories?

 its painful (to me) to see yah fighting with it, for god's sake, take something simple as pouring wizz out of a boot and over complicate it by a factor of 100.

It's Whatsapp.

Edited, never mind.  No need to be insulting.  Not a good look for you.

Edited March 16, 20196 yr by Zed Head

The only thing/s that don't look good on/for me....are snowflakes.

Edited March 17, 20196 yr by tzagi1

Ok. I have spent all afternoon chasing down some of my wiring gremlins. I have tracked back the lack of power to the + side of the coil to the tacho. I have continuity from the coil to the tacho, and I have power when the ignition is on to the tacho, but the output connection from the the tacho is not giving me any power? Does that mean that the tacho is fried? 

Another strange one that I traced, was there are 2 black white wires in the main harness coming through the fire wall. One of them being the wire from the coil to the tacho. I thought I had found my issue initially where I found one of them had been cut with 2 unplugged connectors on them which I assumed was from an old immobiliser. But after tracing it I found that it is the wire from the ignition to the voltage regulator? Would that work as an immobiliser? Or is it more likely that someone stuffed up and tried to immobilise the wrong Black/white wire?

I hope this makes sense. Any help is appreciated.

Edited March 17, 20196 yr by Home Built by Jeff

btw nice F1 in Australia! THANKS!

Thanks for that, but it doesn’t really address my issue. I have already changed the wiring for the ZX dizzy. The issue is that the + signal is not getting from from the tach to the coil? Could my tacho be fried and that is why there is power in and no power out?

Edited March 17, 20196 yr by Home Built by Jeff

The power goes through the tachometer on its way to the coil.  If you measure voltage at the coil then there is a clear path through the tachometer.  The ignition module provides a ground to let current flow, then a spark is created when that circuit is broken.  246's diagram shows the path (it is missing the ground from the IC ignition box though).

It's easy to confuse voltage with current.  You might describe what your meter reads at the + and - terminals of the coil with the key on.  There should be voltage on both terminals.

 

12 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

Ok. I have spent all afternoon chasing down some of my wiring gremlins. I have tracked back the lack of power to the + side of the coil to the tacho. I have continuity from the coil to the tacho, and I have power when the ignition is on to the tacho, but the output connection from the the tacho is not giving me any power? Does that mean that the tacho is fried? 

Sorry, I missed this post.  My last post was redundant.

You might post up which wires you're measuring continuity and power to.  If you're seeing power to the tach and continuity from the tach, then measuring continuity through the tach would be the thing to do.  Actually, resistance measurements, ohms, are better than continuity.

 

There a lot of wires at the tach.