Home Built Z 'Full video build'

[Zed Head]

There's a nice 1971 wiring diagram on page 37.

 

[Home Built by Jeff]

27 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Sorry, I missed this post.  My last post was redundant.

You might post up which wires you're measuring continuity and power to.  If you're seeing power to the tach and continuity from the tach, then measuring continuity through the tach would be the thing to do.  Actually, resistance measurements, ohms, are better than continuity.

 

I will measure the resistance and get back to you, but it is exactly as you say. I have power and ground to the tach, but the centre post of the tach that should also show power (which is the output to the coil) does not. 

[Home Built by Jeff]

53 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

There a lot of wires at the tach.

Half of those wires are for the globes. There are only 4 wires we are interested in. Power and ground, and then the 2 wires that go to the centre terminal, one of which goes to the coil.

[Zed Head]

If you want to work on the tach problem later you can run a wire from the ballast resistor output terminal to the coil positive terminal.  That will bypass the tachometer.  If it starts and runs that will be another sign that your troubleshooting is correct.

[Home Built by Jeff]

14 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

If you want to work on the tach problem later you can run a wire from the ballast resistor output terminal to the coil positive terminal.  That will bypass the tachometer.  If it starts and runs that will be another sign that your troubleshooting is correct.

I don't have a ballast resistor in this car, but I can just run power straight from the battery to the coil to get it started. I do want to sort it out properly though. I do have a spare tacho here somewhere so I will check that to see if it works and if I have to I can swap it out.

[Zed Head]

Keep an eye, or a finger, on the coil to be sure it's not over-heating with full current running through it.  Good luck.

[Captain Obvious]

19 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

There are only 4 wires we are interested in. Power and ground, and then the 2 wires that go to the centre terminal, one of which goes to the coil.

I'm assuming we're talking about an early style inductive pickup style tacho? Back side looks like this, right?:

If that's the case, then you really only need to make connection to two wires (not four). Just to get the engine to run, the only two you need to connect to are the two white wires.

The one with the red tape should come from the ignition switch, and the one with the black stripe should go to the (+) side of the coil.

If you don't connect the other two wires (Y/R and B), the tacho itself won't work, but that shouldn't keep the engine from running. Will just keep the tach at 0.

[Home Built by Jeff]

3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I'm assuming we're talking about an early style inductive pickup style tacho? Back side looks like this, right?:

If that's the case, then you really only need to make connection to two wires (not four). Just to get the engine to run, the only two you need to connect to are the two white wires.

The one with the red tape should come from the ignition switch, and the one with the black stripe should go to the (+) side of the coil.

If you don't connect the other two wires (Y/R and B), the tacho itself won't work, but that shouldn't keep the engine from running. Will just keep the tach at 0.

Perfect. That is exactly what I am looking for. So currently I have power to the yellow/red wire but nothing coming in from the white/red, so that will be my task today to find out why that doesn't have power. 

FYI, I got it started yesterday!!!!

I had to switch back to the old points dizzy and I was using the wrong coil and no ballast resistor, but it starts!!! Not sure if I will continue to mess with the electronic one I have at the moment as I pulled it apart and there is a lot of rust down in the bottom and the magnet is in 10 bits. I may have to look for a new refurbished one, or look for an alternative.

 

 

[Patcon]

14 minutes ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

Perfect. That is exactly what I am looking for. So currently I have power to the yellow/red wire but nothing coming in from the white/red, so that will be my task today to find out why that doesn't have power. 

FYI, I got it started yesterday!!!!

I had to switch back to the old points dizzy and I was using the wrong coil and no ballast resistor, but it starts!!! Not sure if I will continue to mess with the electronic one I have at the moment as I pulled it apart and there is a lot of rust down in the bottom and the magnet is in 10 bits. I may have to look for a new refurbished one, or look for an alternative.

 

 

Yeah, that can happen. They get rusty and then they self demolish. You could get by on points for a while but the electronic distributor is better and hotter. You would need to add the ballast resistor back in with the right coil if you want the points to last.

Congrats on getting it to run!

[Zed Head]

6 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

Perfect. That is exactly what I am looking for. So currently I have power to the yellow/red wire but nothing coming in from the white/red, so that will be my task today to find out why that doesn't have power. 

FYI, I got it started yesterday!!!!

I had to switch back to the old points dizzy and I was using the wrong coil and no ballast resistor, but it starts!!! Not sure if I will continue to mess with the electronic one I have at the moment as I pulled it apart and there is a lot of rust down in the bottom and the magnet is in 10 bits. I may have to look for a new refurbished one, or look for an alternative.

You can use points to drive an MSD or Crane electronic ignition.  And there's always Pertronix, they have a better ignition module that gives high energy spark, the Pertronix Ignitor II.  Many options.

Not surprised that you found a broken distributor.  Most of us have.

 

[Home Built by Jeff]

I have done some more tracing of wires and it looks like there is a faulty ignition switch which is not sending out the power to the green/(white I think it is) which is why there is no power going in to my tacho. 

As for the distributor, I have decided to go for the 123ignition unit as I think that will be the best for my situation. Particularly due to the fact that you can't connect the vacuum advance to these carbies. 

[240260280]

Some guys in your country did a lot of dyno pulls to compare carbs to EFI and also advance on a 510. The results were not significantly different.... either this is the finding or they did not test properly.

 

Edited March 19, 2019 by 240260280