Home Built Z 'Full video build'

[Home Built by Jeff]

This week it was a matter of doing a bunch of stuff that I had to get done on the Z before I can start throwing colours around.

 

 

[Elliott000]

Nice, hey Jeff what do you use chemical wise before you spray? I've painted a number of things on my truck and had issues with paint and I assume it's because I did a half assed job on prep of raw steel. Still some form of oil on it I guess because the paint bubbled or rippled the odd time.

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[Home Built by Jeff]

20 minutes ago, Elliott000 said:

Nice, hey Jeff what do you use chemical wise before you spray? I've painted a number of things on my truck and had issues with paint and I assume it's because I did a half assed job on prep of raw steel. Still some form of oil on it I guess because the paint bubbled or rippled the odd time.

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I just use a wax and grease remover, but the big thing is to make sure you rough it up enough so that the paint has something to 'key' into. Make sure you use a primer first of course, and I always use a dust coat first. Then gradually build up to wet coats. Often if you try to go for a wet coat straight off the bat, you will end up with issues even if you have cleaned it up really well.

[Home Built by Jeff]

This week I fit the mirrors to the front guards and then start cleaning up the pistons to get them ready to re-assemble the L28 engine for my Z.

 

 

[w3wilkes]

Jeff, I've really enjoyed watching your Datsun build. As you said there's some controversy around the mirrors. They do look COOL. I considered them way back when, but ended up just going with the stock mirror  on the drivers door. A few reasons I ended up on the door...

They will be in the way when working under the bonnet (hood)

Adjusting the mirrors seems like a pain getting in and out of the car to make adjustments or else it will be a 2 person job. Hopefully you and Mrs Jeff use the same mirror position. (picture your complaint about the side of the car the bonnet kick stand is on)

If the glass in the mirrors is flat it seems that with the mirrors that far away from the driver the field of view will make them not very effective.

They do look cool, but I don't think you'll see the mirrors on the fenders (guards) on the race cars.

Edited July 6, 2018 by w3wilkes

[Home Built by Jeff]

They are definitely not a practical solution that is for sure. I am sure they are terrible to actually use, but it is more about the overall aesthetic of the car ? 

[tzagi1]

Jeff, the 1st thing you need to do with the pistons is check piston to cylinder clearance and verify that its in tolerance, requires no more then a feeler gauge set, 

insert the ring less piston up side down into the bore and see which feeler gauge fits (90% to the crank)  in the void, compare reading to the FSM. if any are under you can get them knurled and the clearance will reduce. this is very important to eliminate piston slap.

As the mirrors go, I would use a piece of a wood dowel (a broom handle perhaps?), slightly undercut to fill the hole, finish with short strand fiberglass filler, sand to perfection.

Edited July 7, 2018 by tzagi1

[Home Built by Jeff]

4 hours ago, tzagi1 said:

Jeff, the 1st thing you need to do with the pistons is check piston to cylinder clearance and verify that its in tolerance, requires no more then a feeler gauge set, 

insert the ring less piston up side down into the bore and see which feeler gauge fits (90% to the crank)  in the void, compare reading to the FSM. if any are under you can get them knurled and the clearance will reduce. this is very important to eliminate piston slap.

As the mirrors go, I would use a piece of a wood dowel (a broom handle perhaps?), slightly undercut to fill the hole, finish with short strand fiberglass filler, sand to perfection.

I recently got myself a set of outside micrometers and a set of spring T things (I can't remember there correct name off the top of my head) so I should be able to measure everything correctly. I know the bores do have some taper, I just need to see how much. I don't have a budget for a bore and new pistons, so I hope they are good.

[240260280]

FYI there are 88mm VW pistons that work well for an L28 Overbore with offset crank grind... melds your Beetle and your Z ?

[Home Built by Jeff]

11 hours ago, 240260280 said:

FYI there are 88mm VW pistons that work well for an L28 Overbore with offset crank grind... melds your Beetle and your Z ?

That is good to know. If mine are too far out of wack, I may need to look at something, but hopefully I can 'run what I brung'.

[Home Built by Jeff]

Well I am quite happy, I just went through and measured the clearances of my pistons and the bores including the taper and it is all well within spec which is a relief.

I actually thought the bores would have more taper than they do, but the largest taper is 0.05mm. As for the piston to bore clearance they area all around 0.11mm where standard is 0.05 and max is 0.22. The crank is also well within spec, so I can still use standard bearings. Hopefully this should all go together nicely.

[Patcon]

These blocks are quite durable and a number have been opened thousands of miles later and still show evidence of the cross hatching