This week I finally finish the roll cage. I also start aligning all of the panels on the Z getting it ready for paint.

 

wow, I'm impressed his craftmanship!

When I need to tighten a door gap, I simply add a weld bead to the edge of the door or if more is needed, weld a welding rod to edge of door.   Then, grind it back to the proper gap.   If I need to open a gap, I simply grind back the door edge then weld up the split seam.   Drawback is that removing the skin later will be very difficult.

 

i reccomend installimg the rear bumper without the over riders.   A nice touch would be to weld up the bumper joints (make them butt joints first) and holes and remove the rubber rub strips.  Then have it all chromed as a single piece.  Nice and clean.

 

i have the same issue with my hood and will need to replace before repaint.   Mine is pushed far enough down that it hits the grill when opening the hood...I had to bend the top grill bar just slightly.  I found this out when I replaced the grill with a nice straight unit.

 

Great work and fun to watch.  Btw, your welds look good to me...I can’t do any better.

Edited January 20, 20187 yr by David F

Here is how the pros fake the gap.  Bondo and parallel blade.

 

Edited January 20, 20187 yr by 240260280

  On 1/20/2018 at 2:32 PM, David F said:

When I need to tighten a door gap, I simply add a weld bead to the edge of the door or if more is needed, weld a welding rod to edge of door.   Then, grind it back to the proper gap.   If I need to open a gap, I simply grind back the door edge then weld up the split seam.   Drawback is that removing the skin later will be very difficult.

 

i reccomend imstallimg the rear bumper without the over riders.   A nice touch would be to weld up the bumper joints (make them butt joints first) and holes and remove the rubber rub strips.  Then have it all chromed as a single piece.  Nice and clean.

 

i have the same issue with my hood and will need to replace before repaint.   Mine is pushed far enough down that it hits the grill when opening the hood...I had to bend the top grill bar just slightly.  I found this out when I replaced the grill with a nice straight unit.

That is a good tip with the door gap, although want to get the most out of adjustment first of course.

I am now actually planning on welding the bumper to one piece, and we were lucky enough to not have over riders in Aus. I won't be chroming it though, as that is not something I can do myself  

I can't even fit a grill at all at the moment with the bonnet the way it is, but I will cut it and see what I can do.

  On 1/20/2018 at 7:53 PM, 240260280 said:

Here is how the pros fake the gap.  Bondo and parallel blade.

 

Haha, here is one I did on my 911

 

Edited January 20, 20187 yr by Home Built by Jeff

This week I get stuck back into repairing the bonnet and then spend a heap of time trying to get the front bar lined up.

 

This week I manage to do some home built frame pulling and then I rebuild the spray booth.

 

Nice work Jeff! Did you support the lower rad support while jacking the nacelles up? I would be concerned you may have changed the geometry of the lower rad support.

  On 2/2/2018 at 2:20 PM, wheee! said:

Nice work Jeff! Did you support the lower rad support while jacking the nacelles up? I would be concerned you may have changed the geometry of the lower rad support.

I probably should have, but the lower support panel is many times stronger than those front wings, so I wasn't overly concerned.

This week's adventure was finishing up the booth lighting. I then moved on to rust treating the whole car and painting the epoxy primer.

 

 

This week I planned on painting the epoxy on the inside of all the panels, but I ended up getting side tracked by more panel beating and trying to fit a really dodgy wing.