Hi all...

My driver door lock failed, and I'm  unable to lock the door.  Key will not work either.  So, I need a door lock, or pair, as the right one has never worked, I have to open it by pulling the lock up from the inside.  This is a big problem as I will NEVER walk away from RedBird leaving her unlocked.  So I am stuck home until I can get it fixed.  

I have searched on eBay and called all the parts places I can think of.  The 2 on eBay are both over a months shipping time away.  I do need to get this fixed before then.  Money will not allow me to buy one that is $155 from the parts store.

So... my question to you is, anyone have any idea where I can get one for my 1976 280 relatively fast?  Please share if you do.

Thank you,

Jai

 Will the key turn the lock but won't unlock the door or does the key not turn? If the key won't turn it may be quicker and possibly cheaper to take RB to a locksmith and let him remove, repair and reinstall the lock. BUT, before doing that, have you tried lubing (not oil) the lock with a product like Lock Ease? It's a graphite lock fluid.

55 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 Will the key turn the lock but won't unlock the door or does the key not turn? If the key won't turn it may be quicker and possibly cheaper to take RB to a locksmith and let him remove, repair and reinstall the lock. BUT, before doing that, have you tried lubing (not oil) the lock with a product like Lock Ease? It's a graphite lock fluid.

Key will not go Into lock  I do have powered graphite I will try.

Thanks

I find it very rare that the tumblers become unusable. Normally lubricant will fix that. Like Mark said use a graphite lubricant not a WD40 type product

Just now, Patcon said:

I find it very rare that the tumblers become unusable. Normally lubricant will fix that. Like Mark said use a graphite lubricant not a WD40 type product

The door will not close the last 1/2 inch.  Makes me wonder if one of the hinges, etc, have loosened up?  Keeping the door from making a good connection.   But if that is true, would the key still go in the cylinder?  Which it does not.  

I will try the graphite powder I have on hand tomorrow and report the results.

Thank you...

I am not positive but I would think the tumblers and the door latch would be independant

If the problem is corrosion then you can blast it with WD-40, let it sit a few minutes and repeat. Then you can blast it a few times with carb cleaner to remove the WD-40, and maybe follow that with graphite when it's dry. It might not be corrosion, though. Sometimes something breaks inside the lock.

 Don't know what would keep the door from closing the last half inch. Try lifting the door when it's open to see if the hinges are worn or loose or close it slowly and check the vertical alignment (gaps) of the door. If the key won't go into the lock, a locksmith would be able to remove, repair and replace it. It might be cheaper than buying another lock.

Mark,

That is why I am thinking something in the process of the door closing is amiss and perhaps not the lock itself.  But maybe both.

Aghhh, my tube of graphite powder is among the missing.  Grrr...

I'm taking RB tomorrow to the body shop to get the headlight adjusted, as it looks down.  Also they are going to balance the wheels.  Left over from the repair stuff.  Perhaps I can manage to get someone to look at the door and give me a clue.  It is not anywhere near the repair they did, so maybe not.

Thanks,

Jai

door not closing is 1st issue to address, I would be surprised if the door mech worked at all under those conditions. Was it this way after the repair? is it the same side that took the hit? maybe a pic of the 1/2 issue is in order.

Just now, Dave WM said:

door not closing is 1st issue to address, I would be surprised if the door mech worked at all under those conditions. Was it this way after the repair? is it the same side that took the hit? maybe a pic of the 1/2 issue is in order.

Ok... I made a mistake, or... it may have changed.  Key in door lock does move the inside latch post up and down.  But, it has no effect on the door opening or closing the door tightly.

Photos of the door with the 1/2 inch opening showing how far the door will go, showing wider gap at the top and thinner gap near the bottom..  Back edge and front edge.

No this is the drivers door, repair was on the right side.  Yes this started after the repair but I have been assured that they did nothing to the drivers door.  Curious eh?  Wonder if they leaned on the door, putting pressure to the mechanisms.

Then photos of the hinge and striking plates, before anyone asks for them.

Thanks for all the comments,

Jai

 

looks like door alignment issues. As stated before, 1st thing to check is hinge play, if that is sloppy need to fix, next would be to adj the door hinge bolts and/or striker plate. body shop should be able to deal with this.