Always special to know somebody like that

Stroker Diesel crank is back from marine crankshaft! 

Offset ground to 84.6mm
Toyota rod ends 1.8896”
Ground main journals to -020”
Dynamic balance 
Ion plasma nitride, straighten and micro polished.

Iac balance bar is looking good. Next is having it cut. 

I’m not going to rattle can my new stroker block.  So I need a color code off something. 
 

The alternator bracket seemed like the best choice for still have original paint and be something I can easily take off. I found another that was plated to replace it. This is the last grimy thing on my original motor. 
 

 I will have a ppg shop scan it next week. It’s darker blue then I would have guessed. 

Edited February 29, 20205 yr by duffymahoney

Balance bar cap is done 

ITB with IAC and pcv here I come. 

Which mount looks better. Stock coil mount or the rubber one? Rubber one looks lower profile.

Rubber looks best to me.

First one, looks more appropriate and fitting in with the aesthetic of the car. 

 

I got pretty far on the intake. I figured out my basic plan. I also tig welded the old holes and drilled and tapped new ones. So they are centered better. 
 

I tapped all existing holes for npt plugs. I also drilled each runner to 9mm. I bought a bspt 1/4 for the stock pcv fitting. Also a 5/8 hose Barb by 3/8 npt brass for the iac. 
 

I also had my stacks turned down to fit some cheap filters. Brass or no brass? 

 

 

Edited March 8, 20205 yr by duffymahoney

No brass on the filters is my vote.  Looking very clean.

My decision on iac location.  I can use the stock 12v + from the coil and also the coil negative wiring for the iac connected to my haltech. So wiring will stay the same. 

My decision on iac location.  I can use the stock 12v + from the coil and also the coil negative wiring for the iac connected to my haltech. So wiring will stay the same. 

Why don’t you live near me?? We have so much in common...


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