Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

[duffymahoney]

Brand new. But one of the rivets wasn’t set firm enough. . 

[duffymahoney]

New switch has power to B/W on start, but not the G/W.  I will check again when i get home with clamps, but that is what I found.  Also my old switch if you barely turn it start, it catches 50% of the time.  That was Richards idea.  

[duffymahoney]

Ok, if I turn the ignition from on to start and not turn it far. My new ignition and old work fine this way. Both have issues if I turn it further to the clockwise. 
 

My next giant question is if I turn it full hard to the right or clockwise. The starter doesn’t kick on at all. This is with both ignition switches. Is this normal? 
 

You can see my haltech ecu on the passenger kick panel 
 

 

Edited August 26, 2022 by duffymahoney

[duffymahoney]

Well the terminal fell off on my brand new switch. I have another coming tomorrow on accident. Hopefully it’s better. 

[Captain Obvious]

Wow. Nice switch. Hope that was a really really rare occurrence. 

So your question "if I turn it full hard to the right or clockwise. The starter doesn’t kick on at all. Is this normal?"

In my experience, the answer is "No, that is not normal." It sounds like your lock is travelling too far and going PAST the location that it should rotate. I've seen situations where internal wear makes it such that the switch doesn't turn far enough, but I don't think I've seen it turning TOO far.

I'll dig some lock parts out when I get the chance and see if I can come up with any ideas.

 

[duffymahoney]

43 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Wow. Nice switch. Hope that was a really really rare occurrence. 

So your question "if I turn it full hard to the right or clockwise. The starter doesn’t kick on at all. Is this normal?"

In my experience, the answer is "No, that is not normal." It sounds like your lock is travelling too far and going PAST the location that it should rotate. I've seen situations where internal wear makes it such that the switch doesn't turn far enough, but I don't think I've seen it turning TOO far.

I'll dig some lock parts out when I get the chance and see if I can come up with any ideas.

 

Well I am doubting my tests on my new switch. Since it had a broken terminal. 

[Captain Obvious]

It is completely conceivable that your old switch has burned up contacts inside and turning it as far as you can (to full stop) in the clockwise direction would break the contact. And of course, it would be more concerning if your new switch did the same thing.

So check it again with your new-new switch when it arrives, and let us know. Let's hope if was the loose terminal.

[duffymahoney]

Well this is the oem new switch. The B/W loses 12v during cranking. The G/W only gets 12v during cranking. 
 

I think my option is to tie both parts of the switch together so I get 12v in the on and during cranking. Thoughts? Again, I am not using the stock coil and the stock tach wiring. 
 

 

Edited August 29, 2022 by duffymahoney

[Zed Head]

I've lost track of what the goal is.  You said that you were losing power when the switch was on.  Seems like the new switch is now working correctly. 

You didn't say if there was a point between On and Start where neither wire had power.  

[duffymahoney]

16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I've lost track of what the goal is.  You said that you were losing power when the switch was on.  Seems like the new switch is now working correctly. 

You didn't say if there was a point between On and Start where neither wire had power.  

Lost power to the ECU while cranking, everything works fine in the on position.  If I barely crank the ECU stays on and the car starts.  

[Zed Head]

14 minutes ago, duffymahoney said:

If I barely crank the ECU stays on and the car starts.  

That seems to answer the "bump" question, that would be the bridging point inside the switch. 

Seems like you could run a wire from the Start circuit to the ECU power supply and it would work.  Probably need a diode so that you don't backfeed the Starter circuit through the On position.  Similar to the 240Z alternator swap problem.

You could also just add a separate power circuit for the ECU, with a switch or button.  Might be good theft protection also.

 

Or does this go all the way back to the original power supply wire problem?  The overloaded wire.  SteveJ's solutions.  Anyway, there are several solution possibilities.  Relays are your friend when you're adding new loads.

 

[duffymahoney]

9 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

That seems to answer the "bump" question, that would be the bridging point inside the switch. 

Seems like you could run a wire from the Start circuit to the ECU power supply and it would work.  Probably need a diode so that you don't backfeed the Starter circuit through the On position.  Similar to the 240Z alternator swap problem.

You could also just add a separate power circuit for the ECU, with a switch or button.  Might be good theft protection also.

 

Or does this go all the way back to the original power supply wire problem?  The overloaded wire.  SteveJ's solutions.  Anyway, there are several solution possibilities.  Relays are your friend when you're adding new loads.

 

The pink ecu wire, doesn't carry a load, it supplys the relay to the ECU.  I would need power in the ON and the START.  The best way to do that is now my?