Well, overall, I think the good news is that the problem has been defined and several solutions have been offered.  The reason for the power loss seems clear and it should definitely be possible to remove that problem.  I'd just try SteveJ's solution at the ballast resistor first.  It's simple and it will most likely work, proving the circuit, then you can decide if you want to go farther.

 

I learned something about the Nissan ignition switch illustrations.  I need to go out and see how they do them today.

1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

You don't need the diodes. What I gave you was a very simple way to wire. You said you aren't using the GW wire for the tach, so all you would need to do is land the GW and BW wire at the same place in the engine bay or replace the terminals on them now for a male/female bullet. Why do you want to do 10 times more work?

I guess I don’t get that. I will try to wrap my head around it. 

1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

Here is the connection in my car of the GW and BW wires near the coil in the engine bay. 

The 2 pin connector in the center stack is easily identified by the T shape with BW and G wires connected to it.

Which black and white is that?

52 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Earlier I said that the Accessory pin would be powered if you did that.   I think that I misunderstood how the switch works on the inside.  The diagram is misleading.  It looks like a circuit illustration but really it just shows what's connected to Battery at any position of the switch.  Sorry about the confusion.  If column #4 was connected to column #2 you would not be able to use Accessory alone, without having power to the the Ignition circuit.  Therefore they must not be connected.

 

Is there an effort here to keep the original wires intact?  Seems odd to have powered wires run all the way in to the engine bay that don't actually serve their original purpose.

I think that you could connect the pins on the back of the switch and achieve the same result as connecting them in the engine bay.  A simple back probed jumper at the connection.

 

If I connect behind the switch, when I turn to on wont the starter turn over?

On 8/25/2022 at 11:36 AM, duffymahoney said:

Brand new. But one of the rivets wasn’t set firm enough. . 

 

Here's something funny though.  This number is for a later model switch.  Not a 240Z switch.  So, G/W and B/W are already connected at Start (I assume, like the 280Z switch chart).  Maybe just getting a 280Z switch will solve the problem.  Time to plug it in and see what happens.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=48750-e7705

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58568-duffys-171-series-1-240z-build/?page=36#comment-644653

 

Well this works fine. Jumping the B/W and G/L. 

You're saying that you tried it and it works?  Or the wire ends fit?  Can't tell.

Did it not work before?  Is that that same part number of switch?  The one I quoted is the one with the broken pin.  You got another, not clear where.

Let's tie this thing up.  

16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

You're saying that you tried it and it works?  Or the wire ends fit?  Can't tell.

Did it not work before?  Is that that same part number of switch?  The one I quoted is the one with the broken pin.  You got another, not clear where.

Let's tie this thing up.  

Tried it and it worked fine. I would have to make the wiring nicer. But happy it worked. 
 

all of my switches are the same. 

Well of my 4 ignition switches. One works fine. Wired stock. So I plan to just use it! Thanks everyone for the help! 

100% hands free cold start, warmed up and idling below 1k. ITB and IAC playing nicely.

I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. 
 

First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. 

I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. 

Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor. 

 

Now that my ITB is running nicely. Should I try my SK / OER inner fits?

Poor google translates to power torque of the concave fast limits improves. 

Power torque in the medium and low speed range is impoved. 

Sort of like a jet nozzle. They come in 30, 34 and 38mm.

 

I have 8x 38mm and 4x 34mm