Rebuilt turn signal.  A friend found me a bucket, I got new screws from the hardware stock, chrome powder coated the reflector then new stainless turn signal clips.  Turned out awesome. 

Gas tank is installed. Getting the hoses on and putting it in place without scratching it was difficult. I ended up laying on the ground and holding it in place. The large 5/8” hose was first. Which I used stainless welding rod to make the U. Then the end hose. 

 

Why does the tank  need so many vents?:)

Edited October 27, 20177 yr by duffymahoney

1 hour ago, duffymahoney said:

Gas tank is installed. Getting the hoses on and putting it in place without scratching it was difficult. I ended up laying on the ground and holding it in place. The large 5/8” hose was first. Which I used stainless welding rod to make the U. Then the end hose. 

 

Why does the tank  need so many vents?:)

There's another funky bend that I had trouble with.  I used a 1/2" brass pex fitting to make the sharp bend.

 

I didn't make that sharp bend, I just ran a little bit of extra hose and again used stainless welding rod.

 

  Does the tank have so many vent hoses to ensure the tank is completely filled during a fillup?  That has always been my theory.  I cut an access hole above that low leaking hose on my car so I can replace that hose if needed without dropping the tank.  Of course the first hose lasted a mere 38 years...

Hmm. Well I needed to move the car so I attached a tube to the outlet and capped the tube. Rode the car around the block and no issues. Not that I plan to keep it that way but ok for temporary.


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Got the front coilovers basically put togther, I wish I would have zinc'd the calipers, they have a lot of area with no powder coating and will rust.  But they sure look good, and I don't plan on driving it in the rain. 

 

This is a stupid question, but to adjust height on the car I have to unbolt the top correct?  Old timer at the machine shop doesn't like any of the powder, he thinks it on the face of these hubs is a bad idea.  

22 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

Old timer at the machine shop doesn't like any of the powder, he thinks it on the face of these hubs is a bad idea.  

I agree with your old timer. Same situation as the U-joint yokes to me. I think you are putting an indeterminate, movable squishy plastic surface in an area where it is important to have a predictable hard determinate surface.

Does that make me an old timer as well?   

48 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I agree with your old timer. Same situation as the U-joint yokes to me. I think you are putting an indeterminate, movable squishy plastic surface in an area where it is important to have a predictable hard determinate surface.

Does that make me an old timer as well?   

No, but i would way rather bolt to powder then rust.  I think if I could go back I would zinc bolting surfaces.  Got the first coilover in.  I used their flange nuts and it tore up the paint in the engine bay, I think I will use stock hardware with them.  

Any tips for doing a basic alignment?  I was thinking I could measure the front and back of the tires on the ground?  Then adjust?  

That is what I do for basic alignment, just measure tire to tire at front and back of tire.  Suspension must be settled.  Your adjustment should be half of what is measured or difference from desired setting.  Sometimes I measure from a tread groove and sometimes I put a chalk line down the center.  Easier to hook a tape measure on a tread groove.

BTW, I think the old timer was correct as well.  Might want to consider removing the powder coat from the face of the hub.  If you are worried about rust, just smear a light coat of anti-sieze or grease on the face of the hub...very light.  My guess is that the powder coat is going to stick to the back of the wheel and come off in chucks eventually...then it may even be more problematic.  But, I could be wrong.  Hope you report back on that one.

Edited November 8, 20177 yr by David F

7 minutes ago, David F said:

That is what I do for basic alignment, just measure tire to tire at front and back of tire.  Suspension must be settled.  Your adjustment should be half of what is measured or difference from desired setting.  Sometimes I measure from a tread groove and sometimes I put a chalk line down the center.  Easier to hook a tape measure on a tread groove.

BTW, I think the old timer was correct as well.  Might want to consider removing the powder coat from the face of the hub.  If you are worried about rust, just smear a light coat of anti-sieze or grease on the face of the hub...very light.  My guess is that the powder coat is going to stick to the back of the wheel and come off in chucks eventually...then it may even be more problematic.  But, I could be wrong.  Hope you report back on that one.

That's was my plan for alignment.

 

It's funny about the powder or paint on all of this,  it's very 50/50 on peoples opinions.  Some people are very very against it, then I talk with high end build shops/ race shops (icon, nicks trixs and 2 nascar teams) they all say it's perfectly fine, no issues to worry about.  I trust the high end shops/ race shops more then the average user on facebook or here.  I'm also not the first person to do this, lots and lots of people have powder coated/ painted them on lots of vehicles with zero issues and companies offer it as part of a package.  If I was to do it over, I would zinc the faces and the mating surfaces.  But that would fail pretty quickly.  Zinc isn't that strong.  Bolts and nuts are what hold everything together, not metal to metal or rust to rust or powder to paint.  If I take a wheel off at some point and find the powder failing and turning to chalk I will remove it all, but I have a feeling it will look perfectly normal.