Duffy, I really like what you're doing with the car.  I have also seen and read your posts on Facebook, as well.  Did you mention the size of your new tires?  I would like to know what they are.

Thanks,

Gary

3 hours ago, Freez74 said:

Duffy, I really like what you're doing with the car.  I have also seen and read your posts on Facebook, as well.  Did you mention the size of your new tires?  I would like to know what they are.

Thanks,

Gary

Sometimes I think I am doing the strangest build.  Cleaning up everything but the paint:) The paint is like a 6 out of 10.  Good from afar but far from good.  I just have been burned too many times in the painting process.  Too long, too much money etc.. I just want to enjoy and actually drive one of my cars.  

 

Tires are a 205/55-15 DUNLOP DIREZZA on ROTA WHEELS RKR 15X8 +0 4X114.3.  Here is my inspiration.  

Duffy, you may totally right on the hub paint debate, please don’t take my comment as critisim.  Also, I totally understand your approach with this car and I am doing basically the same thing.   Your doing a great job.  

40 minutes ago, David F said:

Duffy, you may totally right on the hub paint debate, please don’t take my comment as critisim.  Also, I totally understand your approach with this car and I am doing basically the same thing.   Your doing a great job.  

Criticism is a good thing.  I don't know that much about cars and learn from mistakes.  No worries:)

I think that it depends on the type of coating.  If you've looked at the factory half-shaft flanges you'll see that they're painted by Nissan, on the mating surface.  I've scraped a few clean when chunks started coming off, to be sure the surface was flat and consistent.  The Nissan paint might be a two part thermosetting type of paint (I've never tested it for solubility - something to do), which won't melt and flow when hot, or creep under pressure.  Paint from a spray can would be a solvent-based paint, which will melt and flow under heat and flow slowly (creep) under load.

Be aware that there are thermoset and thermoplastic powder coatings.  Two different types.  The key is knowing what the properties of your powder coat are after curing.  Epoxies will be thermoset and probably fine, nylons will be thermoplastic and maybe not so good.

Just went and checked one.  The paint is soluble in MEK.  But it's very thin.

20 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I think that it depends on the type of coating.  If you've looked at the factory half-shaft flanges you'll see that they're painted by Nissan, on the mating surface.  I've scraped a few clean when chunks started coming off, to be sure the surface was flat and consistent.  The Nissan paint might be a two part thermosetting type of paint (I've never tested it for solubility - something to do), which won't melt and flow when hot, or creep under pressure.  Paint from a spray can would be a solvent-based paint, which will melt and flow under heat and flow slowly (creep) under load.

Be aware that there are thermoset and thermoplastic powder coatings.  Two different types.  The key is knowing what the properties of your powder coat are after curing.  Epoxies will be thermoset and probably fine, nylons will be thermoplastic and maybe not so good.

Now that is a scientific answer.  They are cardinal powder which says epoxy for the colors I use.  I am also not bolting powder to powder on anything.  Powder to aluminum, powder to raw or powder to 2 part paint.  

1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

Just went and checked one.  The paint is soluble in MEK.  But it's very thin.

Most of my paint was basically intact.  I bet they did it to prevent rusting.  Most paint is pretty thin, mine was as thick as a few coats of rattle can.  

One reason not to do the wheel hub flanges is because they see much higher flexing loads.  Side to side.  And the lever arm of a wheel is much longer than the half-shaft flange.  The half-shaft flanges only see rotational forces, for the most part, the side loads are just pulling or pushing the shaft longer or shorter.  Tiny compared to the wheel loads.

This topic came up a week or two ago and somebody told a story about their trailer wheel falling off because the painted flange let the lug nuts loosen up.

I wouldn't paint mine.  If you've ever had a wheel fall off once, you'll avoid a future occurrence at all costs.

18 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

Sometimes I think I am doing the strangest build.  Cleaning up everything but the paint:) The paint is like a 6 out of 10.  Good from afar but far from good.  I just have been burned too many times in the painting process.  Too long, too much money etc.. I just want to enjoy and actually drive one of my cars.  

 

Tires are a 205/55-15 DUNLOP DIREZZA on ROTA WHEELS RKR 15X8 +0 4X114.3.  Here is my inspiration.  

 

That looks like the perfect wheel/tire/suspension combo to me, thanks!

Edited November 11, 20177 yr by Freez74

M


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Well everyone has changed my mind, I am going to pull apart the front hubs and rear stub axle, strip the powder and zinc them.  Just like this.