Question regarding the cam sensor . Since my pigtail came as a kit I had no ID on colors and thus no idea on pin out. Have you got yours working or do you know the pin out for the 3 wires?

thanks 

  On 10/30/2019 at 4:01 AM, duffymahoney said:

I think it looks better. Still busy though. 

Shouldn’t the FPR be after the injectors? 

  On 10/30/2019 at 7:56 PM, conedodger said:

Shouldn’t the FPR be after the injectors? 

It is. Fuel enters at the front 

  On 10/30/2019 at 7:56 PM, madkaw said:

Question regarding the cam sensor . Since my pigtail came as a kit I had no ID on colors and thus no idea on pin out. Have you got yours working or do you know the pin out for the 3 wires?

thanks 

This is what I went off of. 

  On 10/30/2019 at 8:21 PM, duffymahoney said:

This is what I went off of. 

Thanks - tested good?

I haven't tested yet.  

  On 10/31/2019 at 10:45 PM, duffymahoney said:

I haven't tested yet.  

I just picked up some 1k resistors . My circuit is not set up correctly from what I read . It needs a pull up resistor and the pots adjusted before I can try mine . Waiting on a knock sensor kit before I break into the “box” to do that . 

I finally got my fully sequential ITBs to fire and run! She is a little rough. But pretty amazing base tune and help from Richard Boyk! I can’t wait to get a fully dialed tune running. 

Worst part is my fuel pump is super loud. 

FullSizeRender.mov

Well my stock original 1971 series 1 tach works with my fully sequential r35 coil on plug Efi system (haltech elite 750) . I literally ran the coil positive out from the ecu through the white wire with a red band then out to the coils through tachs white wire with a black band. Nothing else was needed. Added about 15” to my entire positive for the coils. I like how the tach feels and reacts the same as it always has. This would work on any 240z tach and a rb swap or aftermarket Efi with COP and fully sequential. I don’t know if it would work on wasted spark or not. Thanks Dirk Stoop for pushing this way vs the others.

Where I got the idea

https://www.viczcar.com/…/9515-getting-a-240z-tacho-to-wor…/

 

Have you finished the fuel return line charge yet? I’m curious to see how that turned out, as I am considering several of the same mods you’re doing. I have seen people use 280z gas tanks to solve for this, but I’m thinking the vapor tank suggestion made earlier is a great one.

Incidentally, I know the vapor smell getting into your house was a consideration for all of this. I’m thinking of using a II Much vapor canister in place of the OEM one in my ‘73. Something like that may help with options for getting that return to work.

  On 11/11/2019 at 2:30 AM, Matthew Abate said:

Have you finished the fuel return line charge yet? I’m curious to see how that turned out, as I am considering several of the same mods you’re doing. I have seen people use 280z gas tanks to solve for this, but I’m thinking the vapor tank suggestion made earlier is a great one.

Incidentally, I know the vapor smell getting into your house was a consideration for all of this. I’m thinking of using a II Much vapor canister in place of the OEM one in my ‘73. Something like that may help with options for getting that return to work.

Fuel system is finished and works fine.  How i have it is exactly how a lot of OEM tanks are setup.  So I doubt I will have any issues.

She is running rich, but the gas smell is down to a normal level now.  I am very happy with that aspect.

 

Next big hurdle is cold idle and dialed in tune.  You can tune around it, but without a IAC, it's going to be a balancing act.  My car has been 32-35 degrees when I have been starting it.