FS5W71B 280zx transmisson rebuild

[Dave WM]

decided to start a clean thread.

easy stuff

1. remove bell housing and rear tail shaft housing
2. removed shift forks, detent balls and springs
3. snap rings and speedo drive gear and ball that retains it.
4. reverse idler gear.
5. rear counter shaft nut/gear
6. OD gear, needle bearings balk ring.

what is giving me problems is the OD sync hub, OD gear bushing. the bushing is not going anywhere. the manual says use a "suitable plate" behind the retainer and press out the main shaft.

I am going to have to try and some steel that has a u shape cut out to clear the retainer, I can tap it and us some all rod to attach to the puller on the end of the tail shaft.

I may try some brass or alum as I don't want to have steel bear on the syncro slots. they would be the 1st thing the plate sees unless I could fab up a spacer that fits INSIDE The synro hub and the plate could bear on that. maybe even just some washers placed around the hub would work.

anyway at a stopping point until I can figure this out.

maybe time to buy a plasma cutter and welder to star making jigs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dave WM]

so is this a show stopper, OD bush look too damaged? NLA of course but if its just a bush I would a machine shop could fab one.

 

[Dave WM]

here is the beginning of the series. YT has stopped the free use of the video editor, so I can't combine videos, resulting in a lot of short clips.

the 1st one is pretty long, the rest are very short since I am holding the camera and working, not a very fast way to work, I end up getting starting and ending shots.

[Dave WM]

think I got it combined into one longer video

Edited September 21, 2017 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

got an OTC 1044 puller on the way, says 18" reach (16" from back of hub to end of shaft), just hope the hooks can get behind the hub.

[Zed Head]

I have a vague memory of somebody describing a "puller" they devised using a long length of pipe, longer than the shaft.  You stick the shaft down the pipe then drop the whole assembly on to a concrete floor, pipe end first.  The inertia of the shaft pulls it free.

[Dave WM]

well if my OTC puller is no joy, I will take a trip to the surplus store and see what I can devise. If that goes nowhere I will throw in the towel and try a transmission shop.

If I can find a U shaped plate about 3/8" thick I would drill and tap it and use some all rod and a regular puller. Not sure how the pipe method you described would work.

[Dave WM]

another idea on the puller, maybe I can just get some 1/2 plate (checked it will fit) and borrow a buddies cutting torch to fashion the opening U. No need for the accuracy of a plasm cutter. I can just clean up the edges, drill and tap the rod holes. Just thinking about my options.

[Zed Head]

I wasn't clear on what you were trying to remove.  Looks like the adapter plate is in the way for my suggestion.

How about a cheap Harbor Freight bearing splitter?  Designed in two pieces to fit around the shaft. Doesn't have to do any splitting but would give you the "suitable plate" shape to pull on.

Here's an example.  I think that they make cheaper versions.  Maybe you can borrow one at OReilly Auto.  Might give you ideas on some sort of collar that can do the same job, also.  

https://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html

 

 

 

 

[Zed Head]

And don't forget to add some heat to the parts as you're pulling them.  Typically has a huge effect.

[Dave WM]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

And don't forget to add some heat to the parts as you're pulling them.  Typically has a huge effect.

roger that.

I have the HF set that came with to, a large and small neither worked (to fat or due to slope  put a lot of stress right on the edge of the syncro teeth. I would like to put it on backwards so the flat of the puller would be against the flat of the syncro, I will take my calipers out there and see if any of them would work. If I could file the small one I have thinner it would prob work backwards.

scratch that cant file it down, already just fat enough for the clamp bolts. so has to be installed the right direction.

Edited September 21, 2017 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

the problem is the reverses idler shaft is in the way preventing me from positioning the 3" splitter (and I assume the larger one in your post as well). It looks like the bearing retainer plate is part of what holds the reverse idler shaft in place. I maybe able to unbolt that plate and move it aside so that shaft would not be trapped, If I can get it out of there the larger bearing puller I have may work. The next problem it the counter shaft gets in the way of the bearing splitters. I will plat with that some later, see if I can get that plate out of the way (not off, as I need the gear off to completely remove it. what I would like to do is make sure I can get the clamping bolts on the split puller very tight without any contract with the shaft of the retainer I am trying to pull. That way the flat part of the puller will be what come into contact (the puller has a slope and then a flat, that's what I want to come into contact with the back side of that grooved syncro hub). I may need some spacer washers to allow for that. Tighten the splitter together yet no contact with the shaft it circles.

Edited September 21, 2017 by Dave WM