Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

[AlbatrossCafe]

UPDATE 10/8/2017: Decided to make this my "build thread".

Summary: I recently bought a 1978 280z with an L28ET swapped into it. The owner did the swap in 2005 and left the car almost completely stock otherwise while driving it 1k-2k miles per year. It is a perfect base car for a fun project! My goal is to make it drive/handle like a modern car and eliminate any weird noises. I don't know much about the Z's or older cars in general, but I have done a lot of suspension work with my Nissan Xterra and several motorcycles. Once I freshen it up and get suspension and looks down, I'll likely start adding to engine power.

Key:

[x] = Done

[-] = In progress

[ ] = Want

[x] = Removed

Exterior:

[ ] Fix rust spots!

[ ] Add rear spoiler

[ ] Add front spoiler

[ ] Add some cool decals or get a new paint job

Interior:

[ ] Fix/cover split seams in top of dash (use this cover?)

[ ] Get new shift knob (the old one has the gear indicator thing broken off)

[ ] Fix missing dash lighting when lights are on

Wheels/Tires/Brakes:

[+] 4Runner four-piston front brake calipers with stainless steel brake lines

[ ] Disc brakes conversion in the rear with stainless steel brake lines

[-] 205/60/R15 Sumimoto Tires

[-] 15" wheels - XXR 557 (15x7 4x114.3 +15mm offset)

[-] 1" (25mm) wheel spacers to fit wheels (final offset after spacers is -10mm)

[x] Stock 14" wheels

Suspension/Steering:

[-] Stance Coilovers with Camber Plates and 5k/4k spring rates rear/front

[-] Adjustable front control arms (techno toy tuning)

[-] New tension rods (techno toy tuning)

[-] Adjustable rear lower control arms (techno toy tuning)

[-] Aluminum steering coupler (techno toy tuning)

[-] New tie rod ends

[-] New swaybar bushings in the front

[ ] Power steering!

Engine/Driveline/Exhaust:

[-] Rebuild half shafts with new u-joints

[ ] Mandrel bent 3" exhaust and downpipe

[ ] One of those mufflers with 2 vertical pipes coming out the back (I like the look)

[ ] Upgraded turbo + an intercooler + boost controller

[ ] Megasquirt II (instead of stock '82 ZX ECU)

Other:

Edited October 20, 2017 by AlbatrossCafe

[rturbo 930]

I see you decided to buy it. Congrats!

Nice looking property you have there BTW. Reminds me a bit of my relatives place in Oregon - it's a cabin near the Columbia Gorge.

[Jaymanbikes]

Looks nice, I like the color!

[grannyknot]

So what engine was swapped in? That's not a bad price if all the bugs were worked out and it's reliable now.

[siteunseen]

Nice original 280 with a turbo.  You could really surprise folks leaving the red light. 

[AlbatrossCafe]

4 hours ago, grannyknot said:

So what engine was swapped in? That's not a bad price if all the bugs were worked out and it's reliable now.

It is an L28ET from an '82 ZX. He kept the 5-speed manual tranny that was on the the on 280z and used the ZX ECU. He had been running the swap since 2005 (<2000 miles per year). The engine appears very strong, and I assume the bugs are worked out if it's been going for 13 years!

Those tires start spinning around 4k RPM in first gear without slipping the clutch lol. I guess OEM size 10+ year old all-seasons are not the best. Unfortunately I don't feel comfortable pushing it too hard yet until I fix these clunks, noises, and the vibrations that seem to rattle the car at 5k+ RPM.

[Zed Head]

Very clean.  You mentioned CV's but you should have the stock u-joint half-shafts in the back.  Unless he did that swap also.  Worn u-joints can cause vibration, and clunking.

[esmit208]

17 hours ago, AlbatrossCafe said:

Hey all, not sure if there is a subforum for this, but I just joined and wanted to introduce myself.

Bought a 1978 280z with minimal rust (a couple small holes in sheet metal and under battery tray, but otherwise frame is solid) this last weekend. I was gonna make this car my first ever engine swap project but later decided I didn't want to deal with the hassle, time, and money of that ordeal.

Luckily I found one with the swap already done. Everything besides the engine is 100% stock except for 4-pistol 4runner calipers in the front. Woohoo! I can still customize it how I want but with the hardest part done for me. There are 99k miles on body and unknown amount on the swapped engine. I paid $8100 for it. A little more than I wanted but worth it to save me that swap work I think.

My plan is to make it drive like a "modern" car, and in the process eliminate some of the weird noises:

• Replace all suspension components (coilovers all around, replace control arms, sway bars)
• Replace wheel bearings and upgrade to 5 lug hubs
• Upgrade to disc brakes all around
• Power steering upgrade
• Slightly wider 16" wheels with lower profile tires
• Fix diff clunk
• Fix weird noise at wheels (I think it is coming from wheel bearings or old CV axle)

Something like "TRACK-PAK" from Arizona Z-car looks perfect and would make things easy but seems a little overkill for my application.

Hope to learn a lot here!

Watch the "GREEN HORNET 240Z" video on YOUTUBE and you WON'T think the TRACPAK is overkill

Edited October 3, 2017 by esmit208
Word omitted

[AlbatrossCafe]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Very clean.  You mentioned CV's but you should have the stock u-joint half-shafts in the back.  Unless he did that swap also.  Worn u-joints can cause vibration, and clunking.

Sorry, I assumed they were CVs. I don't have nearly any experience with a vehicle of this age. Thanks for the tip. Looks like something else I should probably swap out.

There is a weird rubbing/grinding sound from the driver-side rear that happens when I get on it around 3-5k RPM, but not while coasting.

Do the half shafts in the rear still spin with the car in neutral? Does the driveshaft spin? I would like to know where the disconnect is.

Edited October 3, 2017 by AlbatrossCafe

[Zed Head]

Could be bearings or bushings.  

People do swap in the CV axles.  Take a picture underneath from the back and we can tell you what you have.  There are simple things that you can do while you're waiting for the AZC package.

The disconnect is in the transmission itself.  Everything still spins though, just no power transmitted.

[esmit208]

The u-joints on the half shafts do occasionally have issues if it has been driven hard. If you are getting the rear end clunk during hard acceleration it is more than likely to be a worn diff mount. But before any spirited driving I would suggest a thorough once over at every wheel. When these cars sit for a while they can feel like a canoe instead of a car

[AlbatrossCafe]

So I gave everything the ole' once over this weekend. Car is in pretty good shape, but a few things could stand to be replaced. Here are a LOT of pics. If you guys see anything weird and have any particular advice let me know!

RUST:

With the exception of under the battery tray, the frame, undercarriage, and floors are rust free. The rust spots are in the fenders, door, and rear bumper trim piece. I am thinking these are not too bad of a fix since they are mostly just sheet metal (correct me if I'm wrong). Dunno where to take it for a fix though. I can't do it myself.

 

Edited October 9, 2017 by AlbatrossCafe