Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

[AlbatrossCafe]

SUSPENSION/BRAKES:

The boots and bushings and stuff are all pretty much toast. I plan to replace arms with some adjustable ones and get some new coilovers. I'll replace tie rod ends and "tension rod"? (don't really know what this does) as well. Inner tie-rod looks OK. Whatever is left will have all the bushings replaced at least. The previous owner swapped out the front calipers with 4-piston ones from a Toyota 4runner I believe. I think I'll leave those.

I dunno if I should replace the swaybar itself. Seems like that item wears well.

Coilover boot broken:

Worn tie-rod and tension rod boots:

 

Edited October 9, 2017 by AlbatrossCafe

[AlbatrossCafe]

ENGINE/UNDERCARRIAGE:

Engine swap is clean. Looks like they replaced a number of parts when they did it in 2005. The fuel tank has been busted in a couple times...

There is oil leaking from somewhere... not sure how to find the leak or fix it. It drips a few drops every time I park it. I tried to follow it up the engine and seems to originate around where the spark plugs are (see first pic):

Boot on gas pedal linkage is gone:

This is most rusted thing in here - think it is the exhaust coming out of the turbo:

New-ish CSF radiator, and underneath is decent!

 

[AlbatrossCafe]

INTERIOR:

The interior is relatively solid. The driver seat has a small tear, and the shift nob is missing the "gear indicator" piece. The interior dash lights don't come on when the lights come on. The dash has some split seams but is otherwise OK. I was thinking of getting one of those covers to go over it: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-2043

The seats could probably be re-stuffed but I am tall (6'2") and am close enough to the ceiling as it is. I'm afraid if I fix that sag I won't fit haha

[AlbatrossCafe]

REAR DIFF/HALF SHAFTS:

I have an awful clunk when I let out the shifter and a weird noise when putting on the gas. I took out the half shafts and the left side one definitely has a bad U-joint (see the video!). The right side is OK. I think I will order a rebuilt pair and send these 2 in to get my "core charge" refunded.

Not sure about the diff mount yet. I can't really see under there. I need a full vehicle lift. That diff front is pretty tucked up into the car. I guess I'll fix the half-shafts and see how it sounds. Not sure how the mustache bar/bushings work either. I think I have the R200 diff? (1978 5-speed manual).

[grannyknot]

Doesn't look too bad at all,  the rust in the front fenders and door started from inside, to properly fix it you'll need to remove the fenders to find out how far it spreads, the door you may be able to remove the panel and access it that way.

Just a word of warning on the bushings, lots of guys have replaced with poly and regretted it, new stock rubber bushing are pretty firm and will make the car feel much better than it does now.

For your oil leak scrub your engine clean, the whole thing then examine it after each drive, you may get away with just tightening the valve cover.

Have a look under the seats where it attaches to the body, there may be some small black spacers on the bolts that you can remove to lower the seat. I'm not sure if the 280s used them or not.

You do have an R200 diff, whether it has the right the gear ratio for the transmission is something you might want to look into. Was the tranny swapped at the same time as the engine? Hopefully they swapped not just the engine but the tranny and diff at the same time from the same donor car.

Edited October 9, 2017 by grannyknot

[AlbatrossCafe]

5 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Just a word of warning on the bushings, lots of guys have replaced with poly and regretted it, new stock rubber bushing are pretty firm and will make the car feel much better than it does now.

You do have an R200 diff, whether it has the right the gear ratio for the transmission is something you might want to look into. Was the tranny swapped at the same time as the engine? Hopefully they swapped not just the engine but the tranny and diff at the same time from the same donor car.

Cool, thanks for advice. Why don't they like poly? Is it too stiff?

The engine came from an '82 ZX with auto tranny, so he kept the original 5-speed manual (and I would imagine the diff) from the 280z... I didn't notice anything odd about the acceleration/pull but I've only driven it 60 miles or so.

[JSM]

Have you confirmed if the R200 in the Car is open or LSD?  Looking at the round drive shaft flange made me wonder if they threw an LSD in there.  I know the 87-89 LSD came with a round driveshaft pinion flange.

Easy check would be when both tires of the rear are up in the air turn one wheel.  If the other goes in the same direction, pretty good chance it is.

There may be other years that came with round as well, but I thought most were square.  Below is LSD diff with round pinion flange.  If it is and LSD, this is a good thing.

[AlbatrossCafe]

1 hour ago, JSM said:

Have you confirmed if the R200 in the Car is open or LSD?  Looking at the round drive shaft flange made me wonder if they threw an LSD in there.  I know the 87-89 LSD came with a round driveshaft pinion flange.

Easy check would be when both tires of the rear are up in the air turn one wheel.  If the other goes in the same direction, pretty good chance it is.

There may be other years that came with round as well, but I thought most were square.  Below is LSD diff with round pinion flange.  If it is and LSD, this is a good thing.

 

Definitely not. I did that exact wheel check. The wheels tend to spin in opposite directions AKA open diff.

[JSM]

Just now, AlbatrossCafe said:

Definitely not. I did that exact wheel check. The wheels tend to spin in opposite directions AKA open diff.

Bummer.

[grannyknot]

4 hours ago, AlbatrossCafe said:

Cool, thanks for advice. Why don't they like poly? Is it too stiff?

Unlike modern cars where you are completely isolated from the road, Z cars are pretty simple and visceral, there is not much between you and the road.  Usually the complaint about full poly all around is the ride is jarring and loud, that's usually from boney butt old farts like myself, it doesn't seem to bother young guys as much.  I have poly on the steering rack, sway bars and mustache bar, everything else is stock rubber, the ride is firm but comfortable. But search the archives on this subject, there are a few threads with lots of opinions, poly does have its uses.

 

[Dave WM]

go ahead and get the new foam and seat covers. It will grow a bit on you, but it will settle down also, I am 6'2 also and my hair just barely touches the headliner, I think it settles some after a while. You can't cut the foam down as the covers will not fit right if you do.

[AlbatrossCafe]

Had some awesome stuff come in over the week

Tires, wheels, control arms, tension rods, wheel spacers (to fit wheels), tie rods, sway bar bushings, steering coupler, and new u-joints for half shafts.

Getting tires mounted this week. I want to hold off on the suspension swap until I figure out coilovers.

Edited October 16, 2017 by AlbatrossCafe