OMG...  Please don't do that...

On 4/16/2018 at 9:03 PM, cgsheen1 said:

  We end up pounding them...

It's a thing!  I saw it on the internet!  If bats are bad, then some detail on "pounding" might be in order.

Seems like, with the way the edge is formed, that you'd almost have to place many short relief cuts all along the inside edge, if you really wanted a good smooth bend, that didn't deform the outer edge.  The "do it right" approach.  Then, if you wanted it to be strong you'd have to tack weld each cut back together.

NO!  Stop giving these kinds of ideas - someone might actually try that...

Rolling with a bat IS a thing.  And there are certain cars you could probably get away with doing it that way.  Not on a two sheet, spot welded Z rear wheel arch. And not on a flimsy Z front fender unless you are the miracle man.

Pie slicing...  Dude, never do that...

At first glance, it doesn't seem like taking a body hammer to those flanges would be the way to "roll" a Z Car's fenders but I've been doing that in the shop for almost eight years now.  That's how Goldie's fenders are rolled and her arches are still perfect (Of course it's a little easier to do that BEFORE paint...)

Patience is the key to joy.

Edited April 19, 20187 yr by cgsheen1

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I thought people were using baseball bats to roll their fenders?  I've seen a few accounts about it.  Put the bat between the tire and fender and roll the car.

That's a popular way to gain rear tire clearance with Porsche 914s.  It bends the fender lip snug against the inside of the fender quite nicely and adds about 3/4 of an inch of extra space.

Dennis

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You do know that the K&N's let very fine dust through, right?  They're mostly for looks and hype.  They don't protect the engine well.

What do you recommend then? I have plenty of space - about 10" long and 6" wide that I can work with. I'm down to try something different and even try a different shape.

What about the stock filter "box" and filter? This picture is from ebay

Edited April 19, 20187 yr by rcb280z

Ended up getting an amsoil filter. It is installed in front of my radiator. Had to remove my oil cooler to actually fit it cus I got the next size up haha.

 

ALSO, after 5 LONG arse MONTHS my new suspension is now 100% INSTALLED!

I seriously thought it would never get done. Even on the 10-year old probably-under-inflated stock tires, it is a HUGE improvement compared to what was there before.

The short list of stuff I have to complete:

• Fit my new 225/50 R16 0 offset wheels/tires that are just sitting
• Alignment
• Find a good way to mount my boost gauge (adhesive doesn't work on A pillar very well)
• Figure out what I'm gonna do for the front air dam
• Insure the thing so I can actually drive it

 

 

Edited May 25, 20186 yr by AlbatrossCafe

Fit the new wheels on this weekend. Maybe it's because I am only lowered about half an inch, but I didn't have to trim/roll anything for these 225/50/R16's. When near-fully compressed, the tire is still an inch away from the fender.

Got it insured through Hagerty (about $330/year) and finally got to take it out driving. This thing is still SO STIFF, so I hope it breaks in a bit more.

It's very fun to drive, but it desperately needs a front valence put back onto it, and I need to replace or bolster the seats. My back hurts after like 10 min in that car. They are planks of wood at this point.

 

Pics...

Testing clearance:

Edited June 3, 20186 yr by AlbatrossCafe

12 hours ago, AlbatrossCafe said:

Fit the new wheels on this weekend. Maybe it's because I am only lowered about half an inch, but I didn't have to trim/roll anything for these 225/50/R16's. When near-fully compressed, the tire is still an inch away from the fender.

Got it insured through Hagerty (about $330/year) and finally got to take it out driving. This thing is still SO STIFF, so I hope it breaks in a bit more.

It's very fun to drive, but it desperately needs a front valence put back onto it, and I need to replace or bolster the seats. My back hurts after like 10 min in that car. They are planks of wood at this point.

 

Pics...

Testing clearance:

I would be happy not rolling the panel lip. Makes it hard to clean and the dirt build up is a moisture trap for rust to start. Only takes a scratch in the coating.....

Mine sits about the same height. It lifted half an inch when I removed the bumpers. Yours should drop a bit with the bumpers on. The height works good for me. We have some awful speed bumps in our area. The wifes mini cooper keeps bottoming out on them all the time.

Edited June 4, 20186 yr by EuroDat

3 hours ago, EuroDat said:

I would be happy not rolling the panel lip. Makes it hard to clean and the dirt build up is a moisture trap for rust to start. Only takes a scratch in the coating.....

Mine sits about the same height. It lifted half an inch when I removed the bumpers. Yours should drop a bit with the bumpers on. The height works good for me. We have some awful speed bumps in our area. The wifes mini cooper keeps bottoming out on them all the time.

I'm totally fine with not having to mod the fenders. Just yesterday I cut the fenders on my truck to fit larger tires... it was a terrible experience. Can't imagine doing it on the Z lol.

And yeah, I don't want to have to worry about scraping every single time I go into a parking lot or driveway or over a speedbump. Plus, this car is small/low enough already compared to the modern behemoths that are out there!

Finally added an MSA air dam to the front. It's amazing how much of a difference this makes in the car's appearance. The fit is "OK", but I expected it to be a little wonky since this car is so old. It works well enough.

I don't think I will paint it. Gonna get the car painted by the end of winter, so I'll probably just leave it for now out of laziness haha

 

Edited July 5, 20186 yr by AlbatrossCafe