Vs OEM

[Matthew Abate]

I'm beginning my suspension refresh and have been gathering parts as I disassemble everything.as I do research I'm finding that there seem to be two camps on where to source parts: OEM due Garda and OEM doubters.
 
I'm looking for specific feedback on when to buy OEM over aftermarket and was hoping someone would chime in with examples and information. I get that people are anti-china, but I'm not really seeing any actual data or concrete information on which parts are superior.
 
So let's start:
 
BALL JOINTS
OEM ball joints are available from a number of sources, but I've had some professional mechanics tell me to go with Moog and spend 1/5th of the OEM price.
 
TIE ROD ENDS
There aren't any OEM OTREs anywhere, but is there a brand other than Moog worth looking into? The ITREs are only available made by Rare Parts.
 
BEARINGS
you can get OEM here too, but those same mechanics have told me to go with Timken. At roughly 1/8th the price I'm very tempted.
 
BELLOWS (strut & rack)
OEM is available but the snap rings and bump stops that make them attach correctly seem not to be. I haven't seen good feedback on aftermarket strut bellows and haven't investigated the ones for the rack.
 
SWAY BAR END LINKS
Not sure they're actual OEM or OEM-style, but from what I've read if you upgrade your sway bar you have to go with end links that don't have the inner washers welded on because they will break. There's a pretty wide range of aftermaket options here.
 
I'd love to hear people's actual experience with the performance of aftermarket stuff against OEM. Has anyone done any head to head comparisons (racers)?
 
Anything else, please add it.

[Mark Maras]

 Moog and Timken are good replacement brands. I would also add Spicer u-joints to the list.

[Matthew Abate]

 Moog and Timken are good replacement brands. I would also add Spicer u-joints to the list.

I've heard/read this, and where OEM is nla I'm going with them, but I'm really curious about them vs OEM. Some people say nothing beats OEM, but even where that is true, is OEM worth the money. For example, I'm leaning toward Moog ball joints because OEM costs five times as much, so I could replace them four times and still save money. Obviously there's a time factor there, but is OEM justifiably more expensive or just more expensive. Also, is there a time when OEM is actually inferior? 

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I guess I should also add that I'm not just trying to save money. I'm trying to not waste money and get the best parts available for my application. That's one reason I'm not considering Heim joints. Yeah they're high performance for a race, but I'm not going to inspect/replace them every time I take the car out like the racers do (should). So if Moog is going to last as long as OEM I'll get them.

 

 

[EuroDat]

@Captain Obvious did some very nice reseach into the steering rack bellows. He started a thread on rebuilding the steering rack, but I think photobucket sabotaged it a bit when they blocked viewing rights

I went for Moog ball joints, Timkin bearings and NOK lip seal.

As for the sway bar ends: i used PU with the bolts that came with the PU bushes. Going PU or original rubber depends on what you are building.

[BDJeff]

Great thread, I'm pretty much in the same place.  Is there a list of replacement part numbers for all the wear parts in the front suspension?  Hard to tell from the parts diagram if I've got everything that is rubber or wears.  I've seen the kits at the Z Store but there seems to be some options there too.  Which is the correct kit for a '71?

[Dave WM]

I got 555 ball joints, although I feel if I just cleaned up the originals and put some new boots on them it would have been fine.

[jcb]

I want to throw this into this topic, please. I teplaced all the bushings on my last Z about 3 years ago with rubber. I find the only listing for rubber is z car source and the fukll kit is $ 325. My question is if this is the best way to go for a daily driver. Thanks, 

Not to hyjack thread this. Thanks again

[gnosez]

Not sure what defines a "daily driver". My Honda Ridgeline is my "DD" but I beat the snot out of it. Even had it on the track showing folks the line one day at NHMS.

If by "DD" you mean it's not a track or autocross car but rather your day-to-day transportation that has to be very reliable then rubber is the way to go. If you like a stock, soft ride, that is. If you want a "DD" with some more control then selected poly bushings are the way to go with my first choice the steering rack. That is something you don't want moving around.

Edited January 19, 2018 by gnosez

[gnosez]

As to the heim joints, I've had them on my street car for over 10 years (LCAs, Tie-rod ends and RCAs) and the race car has had them for over 7 years (RCAs and tie-rod ends). Not one has come loose in all that time.

[madkaw]

I will speak on rack boots. All the aftermarket I’ve used did not fit as well as stock Nissan boots. Also lower grade of material. Yes they are 5 times the price , but a bad fit will tear faster.