Zedfindings Floorpans

[texasz]

Anyone who has used these please help!

On a '73 240Z how much of the floor does this replace? I'm looking at a car that has rust back past the front seat mount.

Please see pix of driver and pass side floorpans in my gallery.

[MikeW]

While I haven't used them it appears as though they replace the entire floor:

"The floors in length start at the front seam where it meets the firewall and continues back past the rear seam and up the angled bend behind the seat."

http://www.datsunzparts.com/FLOORS1B.JPG

[mdbrandy]

I believe Mike W is right, that they can replace essentially the entire floor. If you have questions, you should e-mail Charlie Osborne at Zedd. I've been trading e-mails with him about my frame/floor, and he's been very helpful. Takes him a day or two to respond most times, but he probably doesn't spend 8 hours a day in front of a computer like I do!

If you just have a few floor pan holes, and no frame damage, you've got a much easier job. Check that frame over carefully though.

[texasz]

I had sent him an email prior to posting this and just got a response too. But I also wanted some third party input, you know someone who's not trying to make money off what they are selling. I also was looking for info on difficulty level of installation (I can not do this so I would have to pay someone).

Anyone in Austin looking to make a few bucks if I do buy this car? :classic:

[EScanlon]

Replacing the whole floor pan is a heavy chore that requires some serious welding and shouldn't be your first method of attacking the rust.

The rust you are showing isn't good, but from what little you are showing there, it would be irresponsible to say that it indicates that the whole floor needs replacing. The Tar Paper is still in place, that may indicate further and more serious rust underneath, or not.

I would first remove the seats, and tar paper. That would allow you to evaluate the metal alone. If there are holes, and cracks and other undesireables, then yes, replace the floor.

A couple rust areas, where the rust hasn't gone through the metal, and no critical support areas are affected? Wire brush and a good rust preventative paint. Or Sandblast and POR as another method.

Some rust areas where the metal has given way? If the holes are large, cut and patch the floor. You could use POR and their power mesh, if the holes aren't big.

If you decide that replacing the floor is the only way of doing this, then you do need to be aware that it will take some careful cutting of the present metal, and that you will need to FIT these into your car. It won't be a cheap proposition for you to just take it to the welder and say, here's the new metal, replace the old. You might be looking at a $1000 bill.

Give that a thought.

Enrique

[beandip]

I have floor pans that I bought from Zedd findings, Charley Osborne makes a good product . I replaced the passanger side yesterday . I did the cutting and Scanlon did the pounding and fitting of the pan in prep for welding. I think the pans are first rate. I took pics of the floors before and after I cut out the rusted area but the before dosent show all the damage clearly and the ones with the installed pan havent been develouped , sorry I dont have digital. If you are wondering if the pans are as advertised they are ! They need to be fitted in place and some cutting and forming is necessary . I cut out the old with a sawsall with a metal cutting blade. I recommend not cutting the floor out untill you have the pans in hand. the hardest part was removing the seat supports and saving them for reinstall. I used a spotweld cutter that I bought at the local auto parts store. the floors extend aprox 21/2" up the tranny tunnel and up the rocker side to the seam of the old floor , from the seam of the old floor at the front where it slopes up to about 3" up the back slope that is behind the seats. I bought the rubber pluggs also. I plan to replace only the pass. side and repair the driver's side as there were only a few holes to patch . all went so well on the pass. side I may just do it also. If y ou want some mor info send a e-mail

[nahurry]

i have new floorpans i bought from msa, that are 1st quality. my problem is finding someone in my area to do the cutting and welding. seems like i will need some patching done to to passenger firewall area just above where the old floorpan stops and the firewall starts, just to have some good metal to weld the new floorpans to. i visited my only complete restoration shop in town here in greenville, sc and they looked at my car and gave me an estimate of $2400.00 to replace the floorpans and fabricate two sections of the frame where the tension rods connect. i won't pay that kind of money, so i am still trying to find someone to do the work. all the local body shops i have visited have told me they only handle insurance wrecks, and i have been to about 15 shops. what's the use in owning a car like this that no one will work on?

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by nahurry

all the local body shops i have visited have told me they only handle insurance wrecks, and i have been to about 15 shops. what's the use in owning a car like this that no one will work on?

I had exactly the same trouble, except I couldn't even get anyone to give me a high estimate - they all said no. Thus my purchase of a Lincoln MIG welder, Finch's welding book, and a bunch of scrap metal to practice on. All you need is time....and the inclination to gain the skill.

Note that when I gave up, I had a couple leads to small, one-man shops that might be interested, but I didn't follow them up. Ask around at some places that DONT do the type of work you want (like a good mechanic you know or such), to see if they will give you any leads to independents. Riskier, but it may be your only chance if you don't want to learn to do it yourself.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by nahurry

i seems like i will need some patching done to to passenger firewall area just above where the old floorpan stops and the firewall starts, just to have some good metal to weld the new floorpans to. i visited my only complete restoration shop in town here in greenville, sc and they looked at my car and gave me an estimate of $2400.00 to replace the floorpans and fabricate two sections of the frame where the tension rods connect. i won't pay that kind of money, ..... what's the use in owning a car like this that no one will work on?

Only you can decide for yourself what value/satisfaction you can get from owning a car in the condition that yours is in.

Fabrication of the Tension/Compression rod boxes is EXTREMELY skilled work and will take a lot of time to do correctly. Here in CA, a quote of $2400 would be considered a bargain for that kind of work.

Now having said that, I DO understand the "sticker shock" that you are feeling. Work like this can certainly eat up a budget in a hurry. This is one reason it is better to start out with a solid chassis that is as rust-free as possible, and why rust-free cars sell for higher prices than cars that need this kind of work.

[Ed]

The rust I had looked almost like yours. I didn't know for sure until I removed all of the tar paper and cleaned it real good. I ended up only having to replace a 10" square under the seat support. I bought a couple of 12" x 12" x 18 guage pieces of sheet metal then just formed and cut. Here is the before picture.

[Ed]

And here is the after picture.

[ecp48]

I have not used the complete floor pans, however I have used the rail which is attached to it. In my case I laid the new rail over the old one, which moves it back about 1/4" of or so. The rail was a hair short of where the frame rail kicks up to the thrust rod mount (280Z). I would guess the floor would be of about the same length.

I have found Charlie to be very forthright and not in the least misleading "in the interest of selling his products". I had a local shop fabricate a channel section to reinforce the support for the thrust rod mount (continuation of the rail) and the local shop (industrial fabrication shop), was highly impressed with the quality of his product.

Can't say any more. He provides an excellent product at a good price and the service has been super. I just bought a replacement Driver's side rail for insurance, the old one felt thin.

Ed Palmer

ecp48