Zedfindings Floorpans

[beandip]

Texaz , I think that you will either need to find a certified welder as I did or fine a true body shop that builds hot rods or custom cars . The other shops are just parts changers not really body and fender people. Just a tip , If when you get the floor pans in hand and if you are going to cut out the floor yourself , the welder cannot weld rusted metal. The sheep metal is so thin to start with and if rusted it just burns away and sparkels. If you are in need of the rocker pannel and the front area of the where the front end support attaches back to the frame, $ 2500 is expected . This is the vary reason that we here on this club site warn buyers to be careful of the rust and it's need for repair. This is a lot of work and vary time consuming. This is major repairs.

[QCAR17]

HEY EVERYONE!

NEW Z OWNER HERE AS OF 10-18-03. BOUGHT A GREAT RUNNING SEVENTY ONE 240. NEED FLOOR PANS FOR SURE BOTH SIDES FIREWALL TO BEHIND SEATS. NEED INFO ON GOOD MECHANICS IN ARLINGTON, FORT WORTH AREA WHO DO THIS WORK.

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.

MKE

WILL TRY AND OFFER ANY HELP/SUGGESTIONS ICAN IN FUTURE.

[QCAR17]

Gracias, MPerdue,

I knew the thing about the caps in back of my mind, forget because most of my usernames and passwords are case sensitive to caps. Yes, my z runs great, and looks good cosmetically from the exterior as well, just need new pans and all new interior components. Please give me the welder info if it "PANS" out. Pardon the pun!

Thanx again,

Mike Harrington

[nahurry]

back in 2004 a friend of mine referred me to his body man in gilbert,sc. he welded in my floorpans and fixed my passenger firewall for $1100.00. that was $1300.00 less than the quote i got from a shop here in greenville. and the work was far better than i expected!

[Ramses]

I got my floor pans from MSA. The only problem is that there were no holes like the original. The rust on the floorpans was much more than the replacement floor pans, so he had to use sheet metal from around the shop to splice everything together. The body guy did a great job. He works for a shop that only does insurance work. It took him a year to do the work, because he only worked on it when he was not working on insurance jobs.

Once I figure out how to shrink my photo file size I will post a photo.

[SteveJ]

back in 2004 a friend of mine referred me to his body man in gilbert,sc. he welded in my floorpans and fixed my passenger firewall for $1100.00. that was $1300.00 less than the quote i got from a shop here in greenville. and the work was far better than i expected!

I'm curious. Is there a particular reason you keep bringing up 3-year-old threads?

[JeffMopar]

Hello, texasz

I finished the drivers side a few months ago and started the passenger side today. The Zedd pans and extensions underneath worked out great. Take your time and a lot of measurements for the seat mounts. I measured from the rear vertical wall directly behind the seats to the center of the seat mounting holes. This saves a lot of hassle when trying to align everything when reinstalling the seat mounts. The easiest way I found to take them out was to just cut the floor around them away since it was going anyway. After they are out you can just use a grinder to take the spot welds off of them and drill holes where the welds originally were to reinstall to the new floors. The spot weld cutter and drill was a little big to work around the seat mounting in the car. Also only do one side at a time if possible so you always have a reference if needed. Here is a pic of the drivers side installed, not perfect but it will work.

Hope this helps.

[gnosez]

It also helps to bolt up the tranny mount so the tunnel stays in the same shape as it would under normal conditions. If not you can end up with a too wide or narrow tunnel.

The seat brackets for 240s can be purchased as an aftermarket item from:

www.baddogparts.com

[Go240Zags]

Good News: Finally going to get welding done

Texas, I am piggy backing on your thread because 10 attempts to start my own new one were unsuccesful: Sorry this is so long, but I've had some good news:

The guy that has been promising to do the welding on my car came by just today (yesterday now) and it sounds like the news is much better than expected. Although my current project #7273 is in much better shape than my last, there are areas that need attention. I was going to have Pat patch up the floor pans since they are fixable, but since I have a nice set of Charlie Osborne/Zedfindings replacements I figure I'll have them welded in and get a fresh start. Also have the Bad Dog seat mounts (and frame rail reinforcements). I have two donor battery trays so the hole under the battery (about a quarter the size of the one on my old shell) will be fixed up. Might just do the bolt in like James in Tacoma did (I've been saving all the photos he's sent-good stuff). Pat is a very experienced professional welder with all the tools - mig and tig welder, plasma cutter, air compressor, nippers, etc. And he's doing the work at my place on the concrete slab in front of my garage (all wooden garage - log exterior, wooden ceiling and floor + sparks from a welder not a good mix.) His health has been iffy so that's why I've waited nearly a year and gotten a new shell since. Glad it was delayed the old car would have taken much more work.

Pat can't work regular hours so doing some work for me on the side is kind of a favor to both of us,

But I'm the lucky one because the best part is he is doing it all for $10 an hour.

Just taking a shot in the dark with my fingers crossed I asked what do you think we're talking here 50 hours? I could have been knocked over with a feather when he said 40 to 50 hours. If I can get the cancer cut out and replaced with good metal for $500 bucks I'll be a happy camper. Paid $600 for the shell (I now have two spare 240Z engines with e88 heads if anyone's looking) +500 for rust repair + $1,000 on my F54 w/ P90 and 30 over flat-top pistons) + $300 for my carbs w/ Z Therapy rebuild kits. That's under two grand. I just might be able to afford to pay for the minor body work and a presentable paint job and have my rear bumper re-chromed. I think I've just about got everything else I need except new diamond vinyl. On the engine side I might get a slightly more aggressive cam to go with my engine upgrades and ceramic-coated headers. I am so close now I can almost taste it.

When I first got my current project I thought it was the pale yellow under the black paint, but the more interior metal I reveal I now see it was the lime-yellow color. Can't quite get myself to go for that. I was in love with the red-red, but now looking at white or silver. Leaning toward the silver. Sorry all you Pac NW Yellow Zers.

It won't be a show car (the matching #s motors on both my Series I cars are long gone), but it should be a solid good-looking, healthy Series I that I won't be afraid to take to a Z event when everything is done. The old shell would be an expensive fix, but contains some good spares.

If I ever find the time I'll be listing some parts in the classifieds and eBay I won't need. I have 260Z fenders, 71.5-78 hatch w/ glass, some so-so doors, a 280Z vented hood and a rare genuine Nissan rear hatch repair panel and more.