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zKars

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It took me a while to begin to trust these structural adhesives over welding, but I'm convinced. OEM's are using them all over the place.

I will have to create a test piece and see what welding heat does after a plug weld.

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Norton says any welding other than resistance welding is a no-no. From the info sheet I found here:
http://www.nortonabrasives.com/sites/sga.na.com/files/document/Posters-BestPractices-24x36-NortonAA-8263-MB.pdf

"Clamp or screw panel in place for a traditional bond. All products listed have glass beads in them to
prevent over clamping. You can use a resistance welder to weld through the Acrylic Metal Bonders
while they are in a wet or cured state. You can also use a resistance welder with the Epoxy Panel
Bonder, but only while it is in a wet state.

If you are using any other type of welder, do NOT weld through any adhesive. Also do NOT weld
within 2" of the adhesive."

And since I've never, ever, ever, never, ever done anything not recommended by the manufacturer. And always, always, always RTFM and do exactly to the letter what they recommend... I would have to advise against welding.

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17 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Remove the screws and fill with same adhesive then skim bondo over.

I agree, seems like the safest way, maybe some very light grinding on top of each hole in case there are any ridges.                

So how about the inside, do you think the headliner foam is soft enough to accommodate the patch panel without leaving a rectangular bump? How about some sort of hot wire foam cutter? you would only need to shave a 1/16"

images.duckduckgo.com.jpg

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Adhesive hole fill is what I'll do. 

I'm using the MSA head liner, which has darn near a 1/2 thick foam backing. Should hide the bump. Black is the color so even if it's vaguely visible, no one will notice. I could scoop out a 1/16" of foam over the patch if I get creative. 

Pretty creative foam cutter there. Got plans for it handy?

Edited by zKars
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1 hour ago, zKars said:

Pretty creative foam cutter there. Got plans for it handy?

No I don't, it's not mine but it doesn't look like it would be too hard to figure out.

Get out your long board sander, that gentle compound roof curve is going to test your skills. This seems like a very good alternative to pulling the whole roof off and replacing it.

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Screws are out, more adhesive goo stuffed into the holes. Clearly welding the holds shut is silly.

I will be entrusting the roof shaping to a real body man. That thing is no place to learn sanding technique. I dont do my own drywall either....

Edited by zKars
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