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Brake upgrade


Tim 240z

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Better tires will do more for stopping distance on the street than any brake upgrade.  Upgrades give better fade resistance and better pedal feel if done correctly.  Using quality pads is always a good idea.  Porterfield R4-S are a good street pad front and rear.

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Has anyone ever tried upgrading the 240Z master cylinder to the 15/16 master cylinder using the stock calipers?

I have Hawk HPS pads. I just never liked the cold street grip no matter what pad I used.

A 20 minute track session is fine where you get some heat in the pads. Getting a 240Z to work more like any

newer daily driver you might have is what I want.

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry to hijack. My 71Z supposedly has Nissan Competition calipers up front. Are Porterfield pads available for these? I was told its the same pads for a Toyota 4x4 (can’t remember if 84 or 89). Porterfields are available for rear drums? I’m a Porterfield fan.


12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler

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A picture would determine the supposedly part of the question as to whether you have Comp calipers.

I ran both Toyo SW8 with stock rotors and the SW12 front calipers with the vented rotors and used Porterfield pads for years until they botched a shipment and sent me street pads in a box marked as race pads. Not a happy time on the track that weekend.

We used Porterfield shoes for about 10 years until switching to NIssan Comp and then Carbotech shoes last year. Both worked fine but the constant adjustments were too much for me and I have now swapped in the TechnoToy Wilwood disc calipers.

I can't say enough about the Carbotech pads and shoes. They will made up any compound (from street to extreme track use) you need on whatever backing plate you have. I have purchased Rockauto pads & shoes, knocked off the material and ground down to metal a few sets and sent them off to Carbotech.

They even will pre-bed them for you

 

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I checked last year's packing slip and it was $241. I was in NC on business and picked them up so no shipping costs.

They were the most aggressive pad material (20) and the price included pre-bedding the pads., which if you have a race car there is almost no good place to do that. Areas around the track now have a 10 or 15mph limit and doing multiple passes up to 60mph on a local street isn't possible in my neck of the woods. Bedding on the track means I have lost seat time and pissed off my fellow drivers.

If you happen to use the 20 compound on the shoes switch to steel drums (for the higher level of heat).

Edited by gnosez
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A picture would determine the supposedly part of the question as to whether you have Comp calipers.
I ran both Toyo SW8 with stock rotors and the SW12 front calipers with the vented rotors and used Porterfield pads for years until they botched a shipment and sent me street pads in a box marked as race pads. Not a happy time on the track that weekend.
We used Porterfield shoes for about 10 years until switching to NIssan Comp and then Carbotech shoes last year. Both worked fine but the constant adjustments were too much for me and I have now swapped in the TechnoToy Wilwood disc calipers.
I can't say enough about the Carbotech pads and shoes. They will made up any compound (from street to extreme track use) you need on whatever backing plate you have. I have purchased Rockauto pads & shoes, knocked off the material and ground down to metal a few sets and sent them off to Carbotech.
They even will pre-bed them for you
 

IMG_9408.JPG


12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
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  • 1 year later...

Hi All,

With regards to the Toyota vented brake upgrade front disk. Will the spacer required change the wheel hub position from the stock position (front only)? Meaning will the spacer move the wheel hub /rim/ tire further out in the fender well? Tires are already tight to the inside of the fender running 205's no flares. 

thanks , Andrew

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Yes, the spacer goes on the outside of the brake disc so it will move the wheel and tire farther out so it might hit your fender lip more often.  You could roll the lip on the fender or you might have to install a spacer at the top of the spring, if you have coil overs then just screw the adjuster up a few turns.

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