1980 280ZX N/A. Stock except EGR delete.

 

When connecting my ohmmeter to the TVS following the procedure set forth in the EFI bible, it is producing wildly fluctuating numbers when rotating the TVS clockwise to indicate the circuit is closed. Also, it is producing wildly fluctuating numbers when rotating it counterclockwise.

 

I have 19hg vacuum at the booster, and 28psi fuel pressure at idle(engine at normal operating temp).

Edit: ignition timing set to 12degrees BTDC

 

My friend is coming by later with another ohmmeter. I will run the test again, but if I get the same results, would it suffice to say that the contacts inside are worn/misaligned? It is the TVS type that is rivited together. It is unmolested, but not original to this car. Its from my '82 parts car.

 

The original TVS that was in the car was causing severe rpm drop at idle. It too has never been taken apart.

 

The symptom that caused me to check it is a very slight stutter when the accelerator pedal is applied very lightly. Only in one position, and operates smoothly in all other positions.

Edit #2: The problem is intermittent.

 

It may very well be that I'm being a bit ocd about the stutter. Its hardly noticeable to me, and unnoticeable to others who have driven it. The ohmmeter numbers are indeed throwing me for a loop.

 

Apologies for the lengthy post, just wanted to try to cover all the bases I could think of. And thanks in advance for advice.

 

 

 

 

Is it an autoscaling meter or do you choose a scale?  It's just a three position switch, that produces very low resistance (continuity) or very high resistance, on certain circuits.  The beeper function on a Fluke or similar might be a better test.  You might be getting too far in to fine details.

Were you using the 1980 book, and the tests shown for 1979 and later?  Can't really tell what you did.

It is a multimeter with scale choices for ohms. Albeit a cheap one. I was using the 1980 book, with the feeler gauge method for setting 900rpm(federal model).

A fluke tester has arrived, however a distributor rebuild on a 3SGTE turbo swapped Camry all-trac came along with it. God help us.

Also, another set of hands to hold the leads as I turn the TVS might produce better results. What's happening is that as soon as I reach zero resistance, I let go of the TVS body and the readings go all wonky.

Perhaps you are right, I'm getting to far into fine details, and a good tester, a beer and a fresh start might be all I need.

So the fluke produced proper readings. Its all adjusted once again.