Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

HP question


wil84911

Recommended Posts

I did the same thing.  Had a couple of Zs in my teens then bought a 944 and got ridiculed as "a REAL Porsche" doesn't have a water pump.  Ended up getting a partial wrecked '82 911SC.  The guy let off the throttle in a curve and lost control, busted the driver's side Fuchs and the front spoiler.  Bought it cheap and replaced the Cookie Cutters he had put on it with some more Fuchs and the spoiler.  Beat the crap out of it for 10 years, sold it and got my money back.  Took half a day to change the plugs and 13 quarts? of high dollar Kendall oil.

Ended up with three Zs in a three car garage.  My DD was left outside in the heat so I sold a 240, keeping one 240 and the 280.  Change the oil in 30 minutes tops, plugs in 5. :)

I agree with Mike above, you/I can end up with a lot of money and parts chasing more power.  A good rebuilt motor and carbs, port match the intake to the head and a header with 2.5" exhaust is a nice peppy car to drive around and fun to drive.  My best add on was an aluminum flywheel, revs really quick.  I also put my cam sprocket on hole #3 right of the bat.  Gives them a little better low end, IMHO.  My $.02.  Have fun but don't get bit by the horsepower bug like I did.   :beer:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To set a dollar value on the "I need all the HP I can get" extreme, a race head set-up can run you an easy $5k with $8k not impossible to spend. We took one of the original BSR heads to our local and very good machine shop to have a duplicate made for the back-up engine. I was thinking $3k. Nope.

A good tune-up is the place to start. If the HP bug bites you there are many ways to get relief it just depends on the size of your wallet.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny about Porsche's. I bought my 1st 240Z back in July 1973 brand new. It was my daily driver which I drove until it rusted to death in 1991. I then found and bought a early 1971 240Z to replace the 73 since I still loved the car. The early 71 had a little rust and I didn't like the color so it went to the body shop to have the rust cut out, new metal welded in and then a repaint to 905 red. In 2000 I had a wild hair and bought a 1977 1st series 930. WOW! That car was so fast. The 1971 240Z had a mechanical issue in 2003 so it got parked. It then started to seem like every time I took the Porsche out to play it cost $1,000. Alternator failed, wiring issues, failed rear wheel bearing and then... head studs broke on 1 bank of 3 cylinders. Man, that rebuild was expensive! At least the car appreciated enough to cover the engine rebuild when I finally sold it in 2015. I've now got the 71 240Z running again and find that I really don't miss the Porsche. Still have some work to do on the Z, but it's now able to be driven and I still love the car!

car.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool w3wilkes!!! I had the chance on an 84 M491 with an 87 Turbo motor a few years ago for cheap which could have easily tripled in value but... another stupid decision on my part smh.

 

I still miss the P. Photos from buyer upon receipt of the car [emoji17]

IMG_2174.JPG.1db92f61dfc3499d1034006276b417c1.JPG

IMG_2175.JPG.cdd0cb72d1499dbf94bdeba78ed535df.JPG

 

 

12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Abarth Tokico 1-3/4 sways ext oil cooler

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, sweatybetty said:

site, can you elaborate on this a bit?

Yeah, the cam sprocket has three holes #1 #2 and #3 for chain stretch.  Each hole advances the valve timing with number three hole closing the intake valve sooner than #1.

Excerpt from Racer Brown...

"Earlier intake valve closing is what brings and engine to life, gives it flexibility, range and muscle at just about any reasonable point in the speed range. It helps idle, off-idle and part-throttle steady-state cruise conditions possibly more than you could imagine. This occurs because no appreciable reverse-pumping action takes place, allowing a larger volume of air/fuel mixture to be trapped in the cylinder and put to work at lower engine speeds. Very early intake valve closing is beneficial in reducing exhaust emissions, improving fuel economy, etc., and is usually accompanied by a performance increase."

I asked about this when I rebuilt my first L motor, a mechanic friend suggested it.  It takes away from the top though so it's a trade off but with me just driving on public, police invested streets I choose the low end.  

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 540 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.