Rear spindle removal

[joe newsom]

Just curious if anyone would have one those removal tools and willing to let me use it?

 

 

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[Namerow]

If no one comes up with a loaner, I noticed that Zcar Depot has added a spindle-pin puller to their catalog.  Look under 'Tools'.  No CZCC member reviews that I've seen yet, so all bets are off as to how good it is.

[joe newsom]

Just got it in the mail today let you know how it goes when ready


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[Jeff Berk]

I'm in the process of building this tool. How well did it work for you?

Also, has anyone considered adding grease fittings to prevent the spindle from getting stuck next time?

Edited January 22, 2018 by Jeff Berk

[AlbatrossCafe]

On 11/14/2017 at 5:31 PM, joe newsom said:

Just got it in the mail today let you know how it goes when ready

I'm interested in buying it off you or borrowing (I'll pay shipping and a small fee or something) if you prefer. PM me about it if you want. I need to redo my OEM suspension and I can't see paying $90 for something I will use one time

I feel like we could get away with having one tool be passed around to everyone that needs it via the mail

Edited January 22, 2018 by AlbatrossCafe

[Zed Head]

You might just take a short try at getting the pin to move to see if it's actually stuck.  Sometimes they slide right out.  You could remove the locking pin and the end nuts then tap on the pin to see if it's jammed.  Without removing tires, brakes, suspension, or anything else.  Whether it moves or not, it also gives a chance to squirt some rust breaker in to the lock pin hole.

My pins were stuck due to deformation of the locking pin hole, not rust.  I used a rat tail file to knock the high spots down so the replacement pins would slide in easily.

[Dave WM]

you can also try the larger washers as spacers, worked for me, use some PB blaster down the lock pin holes (plug up the bottom with something so the juice does not run right out). Just don't go ape on it with the washers, you can ruin the threads of the spindle pins if its too tight. either way I would still put new spindle pins and use anti seize compound. Knocking down the high spots around the lock pin area makes them go back but I had new ones anyway so in they went. Get some new rubber washer while you are at it, and some new nuts for the spindle pins.

Edited January 22, 2018 by Dave WM

[zKars]

Spindle lock pin deformation is the #1 cause of stuck pins followed closely by corrosion.  Heat the housing up as much as you can with ever heat source you can muster.  MAP gas on a propane torch is barely adequate but all most will have. Heat at 350F for 30 minutes then cool the cookies on a baking rack..... Wait, wrong recipe...

John Coffey's favorite method of removal was a high quality air chisel with a point on it to drive them right out, run by a large air hose and adequate supply. I get about 75% removal rate with the conventional puller. 

BTW, hybridz has had a spindle pin removal tool loaner program going for years. 

[Travel'n Man]

Do yourself a favor....buy a new hacksaw blade. It will be easier, faster, and cheaper


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[joe newsom]

It really didn’t work that well. The tube was too thin and bent. These tools were designed for a spindle that is not seized. Mine may have been severely seized not sure. I think the idea is good. Just the materials used were cheep. I still had to use a torch/hack saw / air hammer/ sledgehammer/ lots of swearing/ 1 can PB Blaster penetrating oil. Several long bolts and chisels. Then literally all day

 

I have negotiated with zcar depot to return the tool for credit since I have rebuilt 80% of my car with them. So sorry it is no longer available . Maybe their source of these tools will be annoyed and start using thicker material :/

 

 

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[wheee!]

My pins required massive amounts of heat and 60 tons of pressure to move... broke two puller devices I built.

[joe newsom]

Oh yes I almost forgot 1 bottle of the yellow torch gas. Not sure of the name and didn’t want to butcher it


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