That is what i did from my first email requesting SOS. I just dont have pictures showing the connections to the b/w to w/b , Y to W.

I think i will do another diode with the common one most use 1n5402 and see wha happens.

 

The best advice I can give you is to put all the wiring back to stock specs.

Then, at the 6-pin connector that normally plugs into the Voltage Regulator (VR), due the following....

Connect the white and yellow wires together.
Connect the black/white and white/black together using the diode. The stripe on the diode goes to the white/black wire.
Use an internally regulated 60 amp alternator (81' to 83' 280ZX and other similar units)

That's the best I can do for you at the moment.
Dave

ALSO........
after you've done all the above. Run an 8 gauge power wire from the (B+) alternator output bolt to the Starter's battery cable bolt.
This will give you better, more efficient charging and minimize the higher amperage damage to the old 45 amp ammeter.

This will stop it from over heating, not damage the ammeter and you'll see less movement on the ammeter dial.  But you'll still have plenty of power to the fuse box. I had it this way on my 70' 240Z for 8 years with NO issues.

Also a great idea to increase the battery cables to no less than 4 gauge with new clean and tight terminals.
Pull the ground wire from the fender (below the battery-above the frame and across from the starter) and clean the metal surface and terminal and re-tighten snugly. That ground is from the alternator, dash and engine harness.
Make sure you have a good ground wire from the Battery's negative post to the firewall as well.

 

I appreciate your input guys thank you. I have done all of what you recently suggested Dave

 I will circle back to original wiring and redo wires and diodes. Hopefully its my diode or bad ground somewhere. 

Quick update guys... rewired everything that connectsto to alternator and new diode. New grounds and rechecked power connectors. Alternator was still giving me issues. It turned out every time I tested alternator it passed test. From AutoZone,  O'Reilly to Napa. They all tested PASS.. I bought new alternator and Voila !!! It was bad alternator from the start. The test bench passed them but i believed with load and revs above 3k RPM the alternator was faulty. Test bench test has minimal load, rpm less then 2.5

I guess if anyone has issues like me and all connectors are clean and done correctly just buy new alternator. 

 

Great to hear good news now and then. 

Mr. Irwin, I tried to find your web site address for your alternator swap kit but there's no links.  Are you out there, still making them?  How does a person get one?  I'm looking for someone else.

@Zs-ondabrain

6 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Mr. Irwin, I tried to find your web site address for your alternator swap kit but there's no links.  Are you out there, still making them?  How does a person get one?  I'm looking for someone else.

@Zs-ondabrain

Here you go.

https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

Well, that's a bummer then.  Apparently his email address is down.  Someone on zcar tried to use that web site.  I was going to send him some business.

Thanks.

The website works fine. As does my email. But I don't always get notifications from here.

Yahoo does like to SPAM a lot of emails from my website though.

The guy on zcar said that his email got returned as undeliverable.  Maybe he had a typo. 

Is there a reason that you don't have the web site address in your sig?  Seems like a good place for it.  Good luck.

I just re-edited my whole profile as well as listing the web site