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Any advice on bleeding the clutch


footballnick17

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46 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

I've had good success with a big syringe and appropriate sized tube and injecting fluid up from the bleed screw to the master taking with it all the air bubbles.

I learned the opposite on my 325is.  Syringe with a long tube down the slaves master pulling out the bubbles until it was solid fluid.  Did it standing up!

Another trick is getting something the right length and push the pedal down then prop whatever on the front of the driver's seat to hold it down. I have a claw hammer that works good but I have to move the seat forward.  You can also prop something on the bottom of the dash.

Buy speed bleeders too, they're great IMHO.

Edited by siteunseen
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Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Remove dust cap from bleed screw.....slide tube onto bleed screw and up into reservoir. Open bleed screw and get helper to slower push in clutch pedal until no bubbles. Lock bleed screw.

Edited by Diseazd
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My buddy lent me his bleeding tool. This thing makes bleeding clutch and brakes a simple 1 person job with no need to touch the clutch or brake pedal. You do need a compressor to use this.

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Vacuum-Brake-Bleed-Kit-P30449.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgNrQBRC0ARIsAE-m-1w9GBS_eXX5JTgHEp0bStUHgJmPeusMvLWvUBowSdqJJ-zpbIXog3kaAmFVEALw_wcB

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https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10387 

...or this instead for a few dollars (or build your own) which you can use all by yourself but you do need to push the pedal down,

I use this to bleed the brakes on the race car, which I do in between races and I don't use speed bleeders (don't need them with this bottle set-up. Jack the car up, remove front wheels, connect hose and bottle to right rear bleeder, loosen bleeder, remove MC cap, pump brakes, refill MC, close bleeder, repeat. Check petal, repeat as needed. Works very well on the clutch MC/slave too.

 

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