I wanted to compare the feel of the two shifters, the ZX with its float fulcrum vs a Z with a fixed fulcrum.

the problem with just using a ZX seems to be the shape, its more of a straight line vs the "S" pend of the Z. I presume this would have put the shift knob at an awkward angle, so I decided to try bending it.

I used a "bolt buster" which is a hand held induction heater the heat the shift shaft where I wanted the bends to take place. 1st need to remove all the plastic of course, this was the pad that fits on the ball end of the shifter, and the plastic spring load fulcrum. After that I chucked it in the vice and selected a heating coil that was a little bigger than the metal shaft. I did the bottom bend 1st, maybe took a min for the metal to get hot enough to become plastic, then applying pressure in the desired direction completed the bend. After it cooled did the same with the top bend, but since it was close to the top I used a tool to get more leverage. In this case it was just an offset box wrench, larger enough to fit over the end of the shaft, just past the threaded part.

We need to know more about this "bolt buster" induction heater.  Is it 120 or 240 volt?  Where can you get them?

Ebay 1000 watt 120v IIRC about 375$, seems like a lot for what it is, but it does work, and the flameless heat comes in handy. I was a Birthday present, I could never pull the trigger on it for myself, but glad I have it now. I really wanted one after breaking a Tstat housing bolt/exh manifold bolt/fuel rail mount bolt. Too bad I had to break all those before I had it.

I installed it and did a test run, a little short for my taste, but still fine and shifts well, maybe better, hard to say. I will need to re bend about 3/4" more back bend as it pulls the leather boot pretty tightly now when in the forward position. 3/4 should be perfect. My leather boot is pretty worn and has a small tear in it so I will prob fix it when I get a new one and have to pull the console again.

video

 

Oh man I need you to do mine!

13 minutes ago, JSM said:

Oh man I need you to do mine!

bring it over tomorrow!

pic of it installed, actually I think 1/2" would be needed for the boot to not be stressed, 1" would be ideal for placement. I would bend from the bottom bend, I think maybe just a touch on the top. Another idea is to simply extend it by cutting in half about 2" down from the knob, thread both of the sides and use coupling piece about 2" long to rejoin. I think that would be the ideal fix. plenty of extra to allow best fit and keep it a more stock look, while still using the correct ZX end piece for the actual shifting. Use some red locktite and a jam nut on one side to perfect the thread alignment of the knob (it worked out perfect, nice and tight knob with excellent placement of shift pattern).

 

Edited November 26, 20177 yr by Dave WM

makes the radio knobs a bit easier to get at with the low position.

I just could not get used to that low position seem too much like a modern era car with the "short throw", so I went to the local hardware store and bought a 1" hex coupler (8mm 1.25) a 8mm stud about 2" long and a sleeve to cover the stud (think its about 1" long). the hex coupler screws into the shifter, then the stud into the top of the hex coupler, then slip over the sleeve (hides the stud and give the shift knob something to stop on). Now the shift knob is much more like the stock height and the throw is that nice long OEM amount. Places the shift knob right at hand level when resting on the center console arm rest. You can just see the hex part (its right at the top of the leather boot. The shiny sleeve looks good for the part that is exposed. Next I will see if I can machine a alum rod to replace all this hardware, it will just be a tapered shaft that is thru drilled and then tapped. the thicker end will mate with the shift shaft, the other will have some metric all rod that extends down thru it and is used for the connection to the knob. this will get rid of the separate hex coupler and sleeve. While the pieced together work its not very elegant looking, and since I have a lathe, I figured why not give it a try. Have to see if I have some alum stock laying around, I think I do.

I dug through my alum scrap and found  nice Alum bush (guess that is what it was, about 1/2 dia about 1.5 inch long with a hole already drilled thru it. I had to open the hole up a bit to allow my 8mm 1.25 tap to fit, thru tapped it, then turned it on my small lathe. Used some all rod  to make up the part that screws into the knob.

so before and after

 

 

got some cleaning to do!

That came out nice Dave.