Got some grinding noise coming from the front of the engine...pull the belt off, grab the w/p pulley...sure enugh, its as loose as a $20 ho.(figure of speech-I wouldn know)

removing the w/p is a simple job..5 bolts right....well not so much, first off the right hand side 8mm bolt will not budge, here comes the fire torch, finally after a few tries without setting the car on fire here it comes, now it all unscrewed yet not loose at all and will not come out.vise grips, hammers, crow bars....nada,  it's just sticking out about an inch, k, time for the big guns, removed the rest of the bolts, loosened the pump and used the pump body as a prying point for my 4 foot crowbar. pulled from different angles for about 10 minutes...finally it gave.

Moral of the story: always use anti seize! failure to do so will turn a 10 minute job into a 2 hour job...or worst.

BTW: what is the cavity on the right side (the green area) it was filled with fluorescent green gritty goop, almost plado like..I'm assuming its a combo of rust and coolant..

at least you had the good sense to use heat to break the bond and not break the bolt. I can only see one alignment dowel, hope the other is not MIA.

Take some better pictures of the spot.

Looks like one of the stamped steel impeller pumps.  Nobody really likes them.

Dave, that is one of the lessons learned early on..in my case 30 years ago.

The pump btw is a GMB, how old is it?....not sure yet for sure it was not replaced since the late 80's.

GMB pumps are available on Rockauto right now.  Looks the same as yours.

Already ordered one online....it's under $18 shipped.

Since buying a "rust free" aluminum and plastic Honda Insight, I have gained a great deal of experience in dealing with corrosion due to dissimilar metals, moisture, and electricity.  The Insight's steel suspension bolts, seatbolts, and wiring harness stays all corrode where they contact aluminum.

The front engine cover on our Z's is especially prone to this same problem due to the steel bolts, steel block, aluminum cover and gasket insulator. 

MORE IMPORTANTLY , the alternator's current passes through these bolts due to the front cover gasket insulating most of the path.

In places where steel bolts fasten to, or pass through aluminum, I now use this product available at Home Depot in the electrical section for aluminum wiring (NOALOX) NO ALuminum OXidation.

I recommend it for timing cover bolts, and water pump bolts. It works like antiseize but is better suited for steel bolts into aluminum parts.

 

 

          

 

 

Edited November 27, 20177 yr by 240260280

While it's a good idea, I'm not sure it applies in this case as the alternator is grounded to the block via a cast iron mounting bracket so unless the bolt is loose...and it's a possibility. 

However if all is good no electrolysis "should" occur.

My case might be different then most as this car has been parked for 20 years with no coolant, when I drained the system I got less then a gallon of very rusty water.

1 hour ago, tzagi1 said:

Already ordered one online....it's under $18 shipped.

The GMB design with the stamped steel impeller is not the desirable one.  Generally, people feel that the cast impeller design works better.  There are several of those on the site.

Cast ..steel..all depends on the expectations from the product, this one lasted for nearly 30 years,  if it would have been cast would it have lasted for 40? 45?

Anyone cares? would we be alive to replace it(again)?

It's not years, it's miles, or even more specifically, RPM, that matters.

But I was just condensing the years of wisdom that have been poured in to forums like this one.  People don't like the cast steel impellers.  The philosophical discussions have been well-worn and are now petrified, out there on the interwebs.  

You'll probably be fine.  Just saying...most club members would not have bought that pump.