Stronger Lift Pad Locations To Prevent Frame Rail Damage

[gnosez]

Captain, my Captain...sometimes I worry about you.

There is only one way to install these which is to take the "L" lip of the plate and place it along side the rocker lip as shown in the picture attached. The 45 degree angled other side sits against the floor.

You can attach more than one per side and we recently made a 30 inch version for a guy with a homemade convertible 280Z.

We have sold over 200 sets for owners of 240, 260 and 280s and none have been returned due to fitment issues.

The one in the picture is being held on with a rare earth magnet.

[wheee!]

I welded steel plates 3/16" thick to the connector plates on the frame rails.

 

[Mikes Z car]

I have wondered about having a tag hanging down saying jack point or maybe just an arrow.  My current 240 needed a BFH to push the floor back down from a previous lift that used the floor under the feet as the jack point in the front.

Edited November 28, 2017 by Mikes Z car

[Captain Obvious]

 

 

5 hours ago, gnosez said:

Captain, my Captain...sometimes I worry about you.

There is only one way to install these which is to take the "L" lip of the plate and place it along side the rocker lip as shown in the picture attached. The 45 degree angled other side sits against the floor.

 

I understand completely. Most times I worry about me too.

Thanks for the additional description. I guess the part I wasn't getting is that the solid bar stock is simply a spacer to fill the gap between the plate ans the floor. Got it.

[heyitsrama]

This 260z has them on the side, I was speaking to the gentleman in the hat in one of the photos, he owned/raced [i forgot to be honest ;( ] this 260z, he stated that the lift point on the side allows for jacking a whole side with a single point.

I always wanted to know where the plates should be installed. Do the bad dog ones latch onto the old frame rail?

[gnosez]

They weld to the rocker lip and floor.

You could also weld our frame rails over the existing ones to add a 13 gauge piece of steel and use those as jack points.

All this said being a uni-body, if the floors or rockers are rusty then nothing you weld to them will be structurally sound.

[Captain Obvious]

My car is not rusty, but it is painted. My only problem with the welded in stuff is I know I'll have to sacrifice paint.

So, if one were to use a pair of these per side as lift points, how far fore and aft would one put them? Center them on the original jack notches? Put them as far fore and aft as possible?

The farther apart they are, the more stable, but I don't wonder if the rockers are stronger at the notches. I also wouldn't want to interfere with the front fenders in the event that they ever had to come off.