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Cody's Goon


Patcon

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think most sealants will work fine. I always ensured the mating surfaces were clean and used the brown aviation sealant with no problems.

 

I would not use any sealant on an engine where a solid blob can be hidden then come loose and clog a passage. 

Permatex make two nice gasket making sealants:

Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant  (hard setting)

Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant (non-setting)<<< use this one if the aviation sealant molasses is not enough.

 

The transmission plugs and switches are difficult to remove. The tapered threads do not seem to work loose and hold nearly too well. Some propane helps with that.  To minimize this in the future. I use antiseize when reattaching with no probems.   If I were racing,  a blue thread locker and paint marker to identify rotation would be the way to go if safety wires were not available.

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LOL More research:  There is a #3 form a gasket:

US Part Number: 80017
Canada Part Number: 80017

Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant Liquid (The good old molasses)

Two more non-hardening:

 

Permatex® Super “300” Form-A-Gasket® Sealant

Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant (similar to Hylomar)

 

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  • 1 month later...

On another note we finally got the 5 speed in Codys car, right before we had to start disassembly for paint work. For the most part it drives ok except for 2nd gear. It's baulky going 1st - 2nd and 3rd -2nd. So how hard is it to replace the 2nd gear synchros? Does it make sense to just do the 2nd gear ones? If they are not too far in, I would almost rather do the 2nd gear synchros versus tearing the whole thing down while the car is in "paint jail".

we had to fab a custom transmission mount because the 280zx is several inches longer than the 4 speed that was in there. We also had to get the drive shaft shortened too. Not a straight bolt in affair for any others who want to try it.

We also had to cut the tunnel because the shifter comes up further back. We will weld in a piece up front to give a stock looking install

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 2nd is always the first one to go bad and 3rd is usually close behind it. I think you'll find more than just 2nd worn. If I wanted to go cheap, I'd remove both housings, take a good look, check clearances and replace the obvious bad bits. However, (there's always a however) if time and money are available, all new synchros, all new bearings, and all new seals will freshen it properly. You'll have more info for decision making when you take a look inside. We know you'll "do the right thing".

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3 hours ago, Patcon said:

On another note we finally got the 5 speed in Codys car, right before we had to start disassembly for paint work. For the most part it drives ok except for 2nd gear. It's baulky going 1st - 2nd and 3rd -2nd.

What does "baulky" mean?  I had an old transmission that took a little while to wear itself back in.  The first few drives were tough.  The "cones" are steel and can rust.

Also, for old transmissions, Redline MT90 is great stuff.  Makes a difference worth the extra cost.

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