2 hours ago, Patcon said:

That is possible but the clutch lever had alot of actuation when viewed directly at the transmission

Are you sure you have the right release bearing sleeve length? Do you have an adjustable length clutch arm rod? Ie arm with the hole in it that the slave rod pokes through?

Shifting in to reverse is the clutch disengagement test.  These transmissions don't have synchros on reverse.

11 hours ago, zKars said:

Are you sure you have the right release bearing sleeve length? Do you have an adjustable length clutch arm rod? Ie arm with the hole in it that the slave rod pokes through?

I used the installed TObearing and the clutch arm from the 4 speed. The slave has the adjustment nuts and return spring. I adjusted it before the test drive.

11 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Shifting in to reverse is the clutch disengagement test.  These transmissions don't have synchros on reverse.

When Cody brought the car around to the shop he had a hard time getting it into reverse with out grinding. He said the old tranny did that and the new one did it worse. When I disassembled the clutch hydraulics on Saturday there didn't appear to be much fluid in the lines although it moved the lever well

7 hours ago, Patcon said:

I used the installed TObearing and the clutch arm from the 4 speed. The slave has the adjustment nuts and return spring. I adjusted it before the test drive.

When Cody brought the car around to the shop he had a hard time getting it into reverse with out grinding. He said the old tranny did that and the new one did it worse. When I disassembled the clutch hydraulics on Saturday there didn't appear to be much fluid in the lines although it moved the lever well

 Sounds like the problem is in the hydraulics and or adjustments. The question that remains is where did the fluid go? Have you pulled the rubber cups from the ends of the cylinders to see if either is wet inside?

32 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 Sounds like the problem is in the hydraulics and or adjustments. The question that remains is where did the fluid go? Have you pulled the rubber cups from the ends of the cylinders to see if either is wet inside?

I haven't inspected the clutch stuff yet. They're in a zip lock now

Off to paint jail

On another note, is that flattened section behind the valve cover at the fuse box level supposed to be that way. It is hard to tell if that is a factory condition or not

So off to paint jail in March

...2-3 months to paint $2500-3000 plus material to paint...

Should get it back in the next couple of weeks 4-5k in labor plus materials

One of the few rust spots on the car was the inside drivers rear corner. Maybe the exhaust contributed to that. We also redid all 4 lead roof joints because they were cracking

 

Nice work!

 

We deleted the roof rack (so if anyones interested)

and we deleted the stainless trim along the rocker panels. I like it but it's a dirt magnetic and the holes are prone to rusting so we got rid of it

So he epoxy primed and then used "Slick sand" over the initial filler work

So he paints in a 2 car garage, where he also does filler and metal work with just a window fan for ventilation He wets the floor down but that's it and I swear he has way less trash in his paint than I do in my plastic booth!!

 

 

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Edited October 18, 20195 yr by Patcon