Cody's Goon

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

Unfortunately, yes. The inside rubber wiper strip actually rides up on the window bracket when the window is rolled all the way up.  You have to clean out the recess on the top of the inside door so the lip of the rubber wiper can seat in there but if you don't run a bead of cement in the recess the window bracket can lift the wiper completely out. Not great design but it was their lowest price car at the time.

Can you post some picture for me to show how it behaves? Or are you 510less?

[grannyknot]

On 11/27/2021 at 9:02 AM, Patcon said:

Can you post some picture for me to show how it behaves? Or are you 510less?

She's gone now, moved to Chicago, sorry, didn't take any pics of that.

[Patcon]

Thanks any way.

Anyone else have a 510 they can post detail pics of the window sweeps?

[SteveJ]

A while back, @Patcon sent me a 510 tachometer to test before he and Cody attempt to install it in the car. It's similar to the 240Z tachometer with the inductive loop and the power. 

I finally got the testing up to the top of my list, and today was a great day to be in the garage with the summer heat not as strong as usual.

I wired the tach into the ignition of the 240Z. I deleted the ballast resistor when I installed the Pertronix last year, so I could unplug the bullet connector joining the black/white wire to the green/white wire. I tapped that circuit for tachometer power, too, grounding the tach on the strut tower with a clip lead.

The tachometer does respond to changes in engine speed but not much nor rapidly. I'm not sure if it was an impedance issue for that tachometer since the coil is only 1 ohm. I neglected to look at the tachometer in the car while testing since I had a meter connected to give me a reading. In normal operation, the tachometer in the 240Z works fine.

So I can see that the tachometer works, but it doesn't work great. I'm not sure if it was something I did or something with the tachometer that caused the results. 

What do you think, @Captain Obvious? @Zed Head, do you see anything?

Back of tach

Connected to the Z

Wiring at the ignition

And here's the video

 

[Zed Head]

If it moves up and down with engine RPM then it must be sensing the current.  Since it's designed for a 4 cylinder engine you'd think it would be more responsive on a 6 cylinder, not less.  50% more sparks than expected.  Kind of sounds like it has problems.

[Patcon]

That would have been my thought too.

When I tried it on the car a couple of years ago, I couldn't get it to respond at all. I was attempting to run it off a ZX type module dizzy. It is of course possible, I had it wired improperly

[SteveJ]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

If it moves up and down with engine RPM then it must be sensing the current.  Since it's designed for a 4 cylinder engine you'd think it would be more responsive on a 6 cylinder, not less.  50% more sparks than expected.  Kind of sounds like it has problems.

While I said the wrong thing in the video, off camera I put the meter in 4 cylinder mode and found out that the 510 tach should have registered higher.

[Patcon]

@Captain Obvious

Any thoughts?

[SteveJ]

In looking at the 510 wiring diagram, for a manual transmission wagon, I think this is how the wiring is without the tachometer.

BW comes off the ignition switch and goes to the fuse box. While one branch goes to a fuse holder, another branch goes to the ballast resistor via a fusible link.

From the ballast resistor, the wire is BL.  The BL wire goes to coil positive.

When starting, the BL wire is hot from the ignition switch.

With the tachometer, I think this might be how the wiring should be

BW comes off the ignition switch and goes to the fuse box. While one branch goes to a fuse holder, another branch goes to the ballast resistor via a fusible link.

From the ballast resistor, the wire is BG (maybe?). The BG wire should go to the dash for the tach and come out BL. The BL wire goes to coil positive. This may be backwards. The challenge is that I have yet to find a 510 wiring diagram that shows the tachometer and is very clear on the wiring. The one I used to find the BG wire color leaves much to be desired. It was created by a 3rd party. What looked to be a Datsun FSM BE section didn't even show the ballast resistor. 

It might require that I pay you a visit to work that out, @Patcon.

B - Black

L - Blue

G - Green

W - White

@Patcon There is a place not too far from me that does car instrument repair. http://www.hampspeedometer.com/ You might want to see if they can test/fix the tachometer.

Datsun_510_Wiring_Diagram_1971_Wagon.pdf

[Patcon]

I thought a shop like that might be the next logical step.

Our guest house is empty again, so we're gonna get that cleaned up. Maybe you and SWMBO could come up for a visit when we get to that point...

[Patcon]

Does the 240 current sensing tach only have one loop out the back of the tach?

Edit:

It does so that is not the issue. I was wondering if a loop had been removed because of the hacked wiring, but that's not the case. I sent an email off to Hamp's

Edited August 14, 2022 by Patcon

[SteveJ]

Just now, Patcon said:

I thought a shop like that might be the next logical step.

Our guest house is empty again, so we're gonna get that cleaned up. Maybe you and SWMBO could come up for a visit when we get to that point...

I'll have to see if she's up for an overnight. She's working again, so she has been a little tired...okay, a lot tired. She did seem tempted by the chance to be around dogs, though.