Cody's Goon

[EuroDat]

On 6/24/2018 at 11:40 PM, NVZEE said:

Plenty of other references out there — this one’s simply a classic:

http://www.nwdatsuns.com/dtech/How_to_Keep_Your_Datsun_L_Z_Series_Nissan_Alive_1968-1986.pdf

Charles,

If you get the chance, can upload that pdf to the technical download section? Nwdatsuns seems to be down and it might be lost to others.

Great father and son project you are doing. Love it.

[Patcon]

6 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Charles,

If you get the chance, can upload that pdf to the technical download section? Nwdatsuns seems to be down and it might be lost to others.

Great father and son project you are doing. Love it.

Done. Good call Chas. Mike or another Mod will have to approve it to make it active I believe

[siteunseen]

On 7/27/2018 at 8:47 PM, grannyknot said:

In the first pic, is that an oiler just above crankshaft sprocket?

So our oil slinger did away with that? Interesting...

Car's coming along nicely Charles. 

 

[Patcon]

Well I mentioned we had some paint failures a while back. I had been waiting to take Cody's car by the paint shop to figure out what I did wrong. The experienced guys at the paint shop suspected solvent popping. It had been a number of months since they had been painted. They didn't feel like it had been long enough to be rust. Well when we started digging into it, it was rust. They told me I have to sand them to bare metal and then epoxy prime the same day. They want me to strip the panels and start over. I am not going to do that right now. I sanded the bad spotted and epoxy primed them today. If the rust down't come back then I will repair the primered spots and refinish the panels. I probably have 20+ hours in the hood and the repair spot is really small. We don't always get the in epoxy the same day. I usually after blast then get them primed at some point. He said there had to be rust there when we painted even if it's really not visible. It is possible we didn't after blast thoroughly the first time.

I had the rotated correctly but they aren't when I add them

You can see the rust discoloration under the paint. What most people would call "surface rust"

 

The upper right picture shows what it looks like under the paint. We used a die grinder with a 60 grit Rolock until all of that rust was gone. Then I after blasted again and epoxy primed

Both fenders had about the same numbers of spots. Most weren't very big until you started chasing the rust. Really frustrating!!!! So maybe it will stop and we can move forward without stripping the front end again...?

 

Edited August 26, 2018 by Patcon

[Patcon]

We have a new project on the table. We wanted to have a 5 speed in his car before Zcon but we ran out of time. So we have sourced a transmission. It was pretty cheap but the input and output shafts have some rust on them from sitting in the salvage yard

This car didn't have a motor in it. So it was exposed. I plan on trying to clean this up. We'll see

The tranny goes through all the gears and turns smoothly but had very little fluid in it. It may have leaked out the rear because there was no drive shaft under the car. The plan it to open up the case and look it over and try to clean up the input shaft. The output is pretty greasy and looks a lot better than this end. I am working on figuring out how to disassemble the two cases.

We also had to convince the fill plug to come out. What a pain!

It was already chewed up where some one else had tried to get it out.

So we started with some specialty vise grips, nope

Then we moved on to a large set of channel locks, nope

Then we tried a pipe wrench with a cheater. Can get the right access for the wrench, nope.

Then I reground the flats onto the plug. tried a 15mm with a cheater pipe, nope.

So we moved onto the welder. I took a large nut and welded it to the end of the plug. The welds didn't penetrate and the nut turned right off.

So I got a large bolt. Turned up the heat and tried again

Then we got out the impact

I win!!! Now I will probably have to source a new fill plug. If I can't get the input shaft splines clean. The input shaft available new?

[wheee!]

Glass media bead blast will clean it up

[Patcon]

8 minutes ago, wheee! said:

Glass media bead blast will clean it up

I might have to go that way, but I would prefer not to break the  tranny down that far. I may try a rotary wire brush first to see how it cleans up. I think the splines will clean up. The snout that goes into the pilot bushing might have some pitting though. I think there is a needle roller pilot bearing available. I wonder if that would be a better choice if there is some pitting on the input shaft nose?

[240260280]

You could try wiping any newly ground body panels with phosphoric acid to neutralize the rust.

[grannyknot]

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

I think there is a needle roller pilot bearing available. I wonder if that would be a better choice if there is some pitting on the input shaft nose? 

Like you said the splines will probably clean up well enough not to be a problem but the input shaft that spins in the pilot bearing looks like it has some real pitting when you blow up your pic, a bronze bushing is going to get chewed up pretty quickly. A needle bearing might work but you would have to fill those pits to bring the shaft up to size. I think Loktite makes some kind of compound for that purpose, a roller or sealed bearing would be best, but then you would have to have the end of the crank machined to accept it.

Edited November 3, 2018 by grannyknot

[SteveJ]

Is there some way you could construct a tube-shaped tank and dip the shafts while attached in evaporust?

[Captain Obvious]

11 hours ago, Patcon said:

Now I will probably have to source a new fill plug.

Wait.... "Probably"???    

So my non-expert opinion for the rusty input shaft is... I think you're making more out of it than you need to.

I wouldn't take anything apart. I'd buzz the input shaft clean with a wire wheel and use a shop-vac to try to keep any debris from disappearing down into the snout. And the little bit that does get down there should be on the dry side of the seal anyway and shouldn't cause much problem. I wouldn't take the tranny apart for that. You don't even know if it works properly. I'd clean it up and put it in the car. Give it a try at speed and see what happens. If the clutch disk fits smooth over the splines, you should be good.

And I wouldn't worry too much about the pits on the input nub either. A sleeve bearing is pretty tolerant of that sort of thing. In fact, sometimes they put recesses in surfaces on purpose to try to hold onto lubricant (like your steering rack bushings). I'd buzz the worst of it off carefully with the wire wheel and then sand that down to bare clean metal with some 400 grit and wd-40. Just don't go hard with the wire wheel on that nub or the splines or you could cause some damage. And then use a sleeve style pilot bearing. I wouldn't want to run a needle bearing on that, but I'd be willing to give a sleeve bearing a run there.

Of course, all that's just dissenting opinion. I'm cheap and I'm no expert.

[Captain Obvious]

1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

Is there some way you could construct a tube-shaped tank and dip the shafts while attached in evaporust?

I wouldn't recommend that. I've seen where people have had stuff partially submerged in that type of chemical and it can develop a significant pit/erosion line right where the submersion stops. Something abut continually converting and rusting and converting and rusting... All along one tiny line.

Ends up removing a bunch of metal right at the liquid line.