New key by code in glovebox

[Zed Head]

On 12/8/2017 at 11:16 AM, siteunseen said:

  The new key pops the lock down super easy but coming up it almost makes it then stops, I'm not forcing turning it too much.  I have soaked the door's with WD-40 but haven't tried them today. 

I had a similar problem on my sat-for-a-long-time 76.  I used to turn the key and hold pressure until it moved.  Sometimes I gave up.  One of my keys is still twisted.  Doesn't sound like a key problem since the once the cylinder moves the tumblers are already fit to the key.

One clue to me that it was a sliding surface problem inside the door poarts, helped by lube, was that it was worse when it was cold.  I think that I adjusted the length of one of the rods also, the threaded plastic piece.  Don't know how it got out of adjustment but moving it helped.

Can't get to anything without removing the panel, unless you take out the striker plate, I think.  Even the door handle and lock cylinder are attached from the inside.  Then you can just hose lube in and hope you hit something.  You could probably just take one screw out and bend a WD-40 tube.  And hope.

I spent a lot of time inside my doors but eventually got them working right.

[siteunseen]

21 minutes ago, tzagi1 said:

This tool might work, however it applies pressure on the panel at a very narrow point, a putty knife is over 1 inch wide and distributes the force at a much wider span minimising the (chances of a) tear of the cardboard backing. 

Makes perfect since!  So I need to make a one inch putty knife the same as my tool.

Thank you.

[siteunseen]

2 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I had a similar problem on my sat-for-a-long-time 76.  I used to turn the key and hold pressure until it moved.  Sometimes I gave up.  One of my keys is still twisted.  Doesn't sound like a key problem since the once the cylinder moves the tumblers are already fit to the key.

One clue to me that it was a sliding surface problem inside the door poarts, helped by lube, was that it was worse when it was cold.  I think that I adjusted the length of one of the rods also, the threaded plastic piece.  Don't know how it got out of adjustment but moving it helped.

Can't get to anything without removing the panel, unless you take out the striker plate, I think.  Even the door handle and lock cylinder are attached from the inside.  Then you can just hose lube in and hope you hit something.  You could probably just take one screw out and bend a WD-40 tube.  And hope.

I spent a lot of time inside my doors but eventually got them working right.

Thanks Zed!  I soaked them yesterday but hadn't had a chance to try them yet.  I'm painting my rental house, need to get it rented, I'm broke.  My parents want me to sell a Z, so I'm working double time to get that house ready.  No way I'm selling my investments that I can enjoy driving. 

[Zed Head]

I really did spend a lot of time on that lock problem.  It was a pain.  Then there was the window roller problem...

I think that you could reach the critical parts through the gap between window and door also.  Probably better and you might be able to see what you're squirting.  Drop the window just a bit and your nozzle will be below the glass.  Sounds like you already removed the panel, but if you decide to take another shot.

[gwri8]

I agree that taking the door panel off is probably the best way.  I did the lock swap because mine were worn.  I could lock but not unlock.  Now it's the opposite, I just have to hold the handle up when locking.  Kind of a pain but it works.  My weapon of choice for door panels is this $5 beauty from Autozone.

I found the perfect 77' door panel clips on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CTVAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are reusable like the origianals.

Edited December 10, 2017 by gwri8