4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

 double check the blue wire connection at the ignition coil, clean it well.  The Pin 1 circuit.  Maybe you have continuity, but the resistance is too high.

Not sure you understood what I was saying.  It relates to "quality" of the Pin 1 signal.  The ECU is designed to trigger when it "sees" certain voltage activity on the wire from th coil's negative post.  I don't know if it uses "flyback" which would be a big pulse, or if it uses just the up and down from battery voltage to the voltage after the drop when the coil is charging.

As far as before your teardown, that was before you tore it down.  Who knows what you bumped, removed and reassembled, or did "while you were there"?  You're after the teardown now. 

And, most of us that use a meter a lot, don't use "continuity" for anything.  We measure an actual resistance number.  It has more information, and is almost as easy to measure.

Basically, I'm just offering things to do because you're completely out of ideas.  Better to try them than to overthink, I think.

Just to be 100% sure the injectors are not working, use a stethoscope and listen to them. Have you checked to make sure the fuel pump is running while in the start position, as in a test light while some someone cranks, or just listening to it while cranking. Check the pins on the 35 pin connector make sure nothing is bent and therefore not making contact when attached to the ECU.

Thank you for the great suggestions again guys. I don't know what happened, but suddenly I'm not getting spark anymore and I can no longer manually fire injectors by grounding. Something is seriously wrong and I'm tearing my hair out. 

Just for fun, here's some pictures of my connections. Maybe someone can tell me if something is blatantly wrong here.

edit: forgot to mention I unplugged the condensor before the teardown because of some issues I don't remember. The car ran with it unplugged.

Edited December 22, 20177 yr by MrChefur
typo

Show us pictures of the Ballst resistor wiring. The Crank and Run signals are on separate circuits from the Ignition switch. There are 4 terminals on the Ballast resistor

Note that you MUST have both the Cranking circuit and the Run circuit going to the Coil positive side. The two circuits are separate in the Ignition switch.  

#4 is closest to firewall and Connects to Negative side of Coil. Blue wire from Ballast resistor goes to Tach resistor, Tachometer and RPM signal for ECU.

#3 Terminal is at the end of the Ballast resistance wire and connects to the coil Positive terminal.

#2 Terminal is the " Cranking "  power feed. It has minimal resistance drop and is only on when cranking.

#1 Terminal is the " Run " power feed. It reduces the Voltage to the coil and current draw on the Trignition coil drivers via the Ballast resistance wire. . 

Some aftermarket Ignition Boxes or the Matchbox 280ZX dizzy have a coil driver that can handle a lot more current. So you do not need to reduce the Volatge and current draw to the coil. In those situations you connect Terminals #1 and  #2  directly to Terminal #3... bypassing the resistor wire.

Schematic of Trignition wiring for Federal and California models. Federal models have two pickup coils. An advanced coil for cold running and then it switches to the other Pickup coil and normal advance at around 150 F. 

 

Edited December 21, 20177 yr by Chickenman

11 minutes ago, Chickenman said:

Show us pictures of the Ballst resistor wiring.

1978 doesn't use the ballast.

29 minutes ago, MrChefur said:

Thank you for the great suggestions again guys. I don't know what happened, but suddenly I'm not getting spark anymore and I can no longer manually fire injectors by grounding. Something is seriously wrong and I'm tearing my hair out. 

You need to start over, measuring the basics of voltage to the the things that need power.  You said that you measured voltage in your first post, so you must have more than just a noid light.

If you don't have spark and you've lost power to the injectors, check your fusible links.

Here's another.  I think I mentioned this in your other thread, but when you're working on these old EFI systems it pays to try to absorb what the tests are for and how the various parts work.  It really is simple enough that at least parts of it should make sense.  Modern cars have so many inter-related parts and are so complex that sometimes all you can do is keep running tests.  But these cars can be understood well enough that you don't need the tests after a few run-throughs.  You've been working on yours since August, you really shouldn't be too lost.  No offense.  I have faith.  The multimeter is your best tool.

9 hours ago, Zed Head said:

1978 doesn't use the ballast.

You are indeed correct.  Ballast resistor used up until  and including 1977.  1978 had a totally different Ignition Box design than other years. Missed that... 

Edited December 21, 20177 yr by Chickenman

If it were mine,  i'd be cleaning & brightening up that important ground on the intake manifold.    In the pix,  looks like it has not been touched.

9 minutes ago, S30Driver said:

If it were mine,  i'd be cleaning & brightening up that important ground on the intake manifold.    In the pix,  looks like it has not been touched.

You're talking about the one by the yellow tape, right?   http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Yes,  you are right Cliff.    The circled EFI ground in your picture.