Why are you going back to the 4 speed? Why would you go back to an L24 unless it's the original block?

Most people would consider this as a downgrade unless you are going for a purist restoration.

54 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Why are you going back to the 4 speed? Why would you go back to an L24 unless it's the original block?

Most people would consider this as a downgrade unless you are going for a purist restoration.

I thought the same Charles but to each his own. 

If you hadn't already secured a 2.4 & E88 I would be more than happy to trade a spare I have for the F54/P90 combo you have.

Cliff

Hi thanks for your comments. Yes I’m a purist, this is not my first project and/or classic but first 240z. I understand all the comments in favor of the L28 but I like driving the car as intended by the manufacturer. About the L28 will be up for sale as soon as out of the 240 so let me know if interested I’m based in Miami, FL.

Post up the engine serial number from the tag in the engine bay.  Maybe somebody out here has it.

That greasy diff in your picture is an R180.  You can use the same propeller shaft (Nissan called the half-shafts driveshafts and the driveshaft a propeller shaft) if you change transmissons.

The throwout bearing collar must match the pressure plate.  Not the transmission, or car.  (sorry site) Best to take some measurements before installing.  There's a bunch about it on this forum.

Congratulations on your ownership. I really like that your know what you want and are not deterred by the process to do it.

You can determine the diff gear ratio turning the wheel and counting the turns of the drive shaft. Some photos of the back of the diff would help to determine which version you have.

You will find lots of help and advise here.

Transmission and Rear End Gear Ratios.pdf

089832

The bolts around the side flange, and the lack of a rectangular slug on the cover, along with the shape are pretty good R180 signs.  Plus, no fingerprints in the grease from a recent swap.  That grease might hold dirt from 1972.

If that previous owner dropped in that L28 with the P90 head bone stock then it really was not

much of an upgrade anyway. May he had a bad L24 and put that engine in.

It is nothing more than a bigger cubic inch motor with low compression. Complete waste of time.

Unless he just needed a replacement motor.

Actually, a P90 with flat top pistons would be at 8.8 CR.  The F54 NA blocks came with flat tops.  It's essentially a late 1980 to 1983 280ZX engine.  With carbs.  17% more displacement. 

If I had a 240Z I'd do that swap, if my old L24 was worn out.

I thought the P90 was an N42 with better quench?

Wouldn't milling a small amount raise the CR?

Just talking, OP.  We like to talk/type.

You should consider bigger intake valves for the E88. I love my 2.4's higher revving.  Stay on your course!

Edited December 22, 20177 yr by siteunseen

50 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

The bolts around the side flange, and the lack of a rectangular slug on the cover, along with the shape are pretty good R180 signs.  Plus, no fingerprints in the grease from a recent swap.  That grease might hold dirt from 1972.

This is great news

50 minutes ago, Lumens said:

If that previous owner dropped in that L28 with the P90 head bone stock then it really was not

much of an upgrade anyway. May he had a bad L24 and put that engine in.

It is nothing more than a bigger cubic inch motor with low compression. Complete waste of time.

Unless he just needed a replacement motor.

Looking at it from a distance I do understand why people will swap engines and transmissions but it kills the originality of the car. Now that I’m getting into the 240 it seems that rims and hubcaps, engine trays, side mirrors will be “upgraded”