Here is a design aspect to consider... heat shield with additional tabs between carb and head to divert heat upward.

A bit tricky because of congestion and access to carb mounting bolts.

 

 

Heat resistant silicon on top of shield below carbs will reduce radiation into carb fuel bowls

I will be using some kind of heat resistant material on the underside of the shield.

removed heat shield I had transferred over from the OE muffler. I was no able to fit the new one inside all the rest of the shield but for some reason left one bit on. It  would vibrate and make odd sounds. Thought I had something loose back there, but that was it. I kept all the OE stuff including the bad muffler just in case I can find one that is thin enough to go inside the OE shield. pipe is good, just had some holes along the bottom of the original.

Edited March 21, 20187 yr by Dave WM

Some progress today. Need to bend the sides up and do some polishing etc.

Edited March 23, 20187 yr by moelk

Well, total cost was $0 so I’d say it came out looking ok. Just need to give it a good polish and get some heat resistant material for the underside.

"Painted" my buddies L26 block with phosphoric acid in preparation for real paint. 

Currently -2C now but 8C and sunny tomorrow.

Installed crank for first time. 

Took a while taking all of the measurements of the journals and bearings but all was in spec and. Even the crank float was in the middle of the range.

The hardest part was just the rear main side seals.  Guy that anaerobic sealant is fluorescent pink!

Crank turns silky smooth by hand.

I have to pick up rod bolts from MSA when in Oregon to finish the job. Pistons are waiting.

Blue....The rear side seals are easy if you 1) Apply sealant sparingly as shown in the factory service manual. 2) Align the rear bearing cap (with sealant applied, but no side seals yet). 3) pull down the rear bearing cap until you are 3/4” from bottoming 4) install each side seal and push all the way down till it bottoms out against the block. 5) pull down the rear bearing cap with the two bolts until it bottoms out. 6) Torque all bottoms end caps sequentially (starting in the middle and working out) until torque specs are met. This will pull down the side seals securely without creating a blockage by pushing the side seals against the sealant. Finally, put a small dab of sealant on the top of the side seals before installing the pan.

Guy

Excellent tips!  Thanks.  This is the one that I missed that would have helped:

 

    3) pull down the rear bearing cap until you are 3/4” from bottoming

 

I had read to never pull the caps down in the Monroe of Honsowetz but I think it is needed for the last cap.  I'll do it on my next rebuild for sure!

 

Guy taught me that and it works great.

Spingtime! I was out for the first ride this jear with my lady


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